2010 VML Wines Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: The Anthropological Circle

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate VML winery – so-named for Operative-favorite winemaker Virginia Marie Lambrix – and procure their Russian River Pinot Noir – Limited Release for our thirsty, Pinot-loving Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current WineryVML Winery

Wine Subject: 2010 VML Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Virginia Lambrix

Backgrounder: The Russian River Valley, in Sonoma County, produces Pinot Noir of remarkable distinction. The cooler maritime conditions of the region make the Russian River Valley ideal for growing Pinot Noir. The Russian River Valley in Sonoma is particularly well suited to producing exceptional Pinot Noir. This AVAwas officially designated in 1983, but many of the wines in the region used the designation as early as the 1970s (early in California’s wine history) with the many of the vines having been first planted in the early 1900s.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

 

Look – Perfect ruby hues and evenly concentrated color from core to edge. After spinning this wine, tall, elegant, wine-stained tears run slowly down the glass.

Smell – Young strawberry, wild raspberry, Bing cherry and India black tea take a bright, aromatic lead. Behind these out-front aromas, black cherry, soft spice, earthy bramble, and hints of cedar, dried violets and subtle clove.

Feel – Cool, smooth and soft across the tip of the tongue. Initially light hearted, the wine takes on a more serious edge, gaining weight and a light grip at the mid-palate. Fine, integrated tannins and a soft acidity add intrigue and complexity.

Taste – Bright and lively, this wine leads with black cherry, young blackberry, cedar, red plum and a hint of clove. As the wine opens up, flavors of tart Bing cherry, wild strawberry, black tea leaf, red currant and a hint of tart goldenberry emerge.

Finish – Lively, fresh, juicy and long, with lingering fruit that gradually yields to subtle clove, flint and hints of cedar and bramble at the tail end.

Conclusion – Today’s 2010 VML Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is a focused and delicious wine that is well worthy of your attention! Once again, winemaker, Virginia Lambrix, shows off her Pinot Noir prowess, crafting a wine that is approachable, complex, elegant and balanced. This youthful wine is ready to drink, now, and it will continue to improve for the next several years. Well-structured and lively, this Pinot Noir is an excellent companion to your favorite meal. We’d recommend pairing with a peppered, grilled tuna steak, or a roasted pork loin. Drink this delicious wine after at least 20 minutes of decanting for optimal flavor. Enjoy now, but be sure to cellar a few bottles for the next couple of years.

Wine Spies vineyard Check:

The location of the VML Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Ehret Family Winery Bella's Blend

Mission Codename: The Return of The Bavarian

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Ehret Family Winery and procure an ample allocation of their new 92 Point 2008 Bella’s Blend, a wine that, vintage after vintage, is a Wine Spies favorite.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Ehret Family Winery

Wine Subject: 2008 Bella’s Blend – Red Wine – Knights Valley, Napa

Winemaker: Nick Goldschmidt

Winery Backgrounder: We first infiltrated Ehret Family Winery in early 2010. We instantly fell in love with the people and their wines. Our consistent favorite – and that of our discerning Operatives – has consistently been their Bella’s Blend. Today. we are pleased to be showcasing our third successive vintage of the Bella’s Blend, a 92-point beauty that is deserving of your consideration.

The Ehret Family Winery produces small, specialty lots of handcrafted wines from their renowned Bavarian Lion vineyard. The vineyard is also a prized source of fruit for a very select group of wineries that also make award-winning wines from the extraordinary fruit grown there.

Regional Backgrounder:

Sonoma County’s Knight’s Valley sits at the easternmost edge of the County, far from the cooling of the Pacific Ocean. The fact that this high benchlandAVA (American Viticultural Area) gets so much hot sun during the growing season makes it the perfect region for growing richly extracted Bordeaux varietals.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep ruby hues with a deepening core or darker garnet. Color at the edge of the wine shows a beautiful light red. Swirl the wine, and slow-moving legs form low on the glass wall.

Smell – Ripe and sweet, with bright Bing cherry, raspberry and wild strawberry out in front. Just beneath, sweet spice, blackberry, leather, cigar box and dried black tea leaf emerge.

Feel – Cool, soft and light across the front palate, then very quickly grippy – at the front palate. This plush, grippy dryness spreads very quickly from front-palate, rearward, eventually drying the lips and cheeks. As the dryness spreads, the wine takes on a chewy, coated-palate feel that is accompanied by soft black pepper and clove.

Taste – Dark and delicious, with black cherry, spiced blackberry, dark plum, and dried fig. Young sweetwoods, anise, espresso bean, young strawberry, cigar box, dark tobacco leaf, black pepper and subtle clove round out the flavors.

Finish – Super long, with lingering dark fruit that gradually fades to red fruit, spice, and earthy characteristics. As the dryness spreads, the palate is coated with a softly chewy feel. At the end, hints of black pepper and subtle clove appear.

Conclusion – Once again, Ehret really impresses us with their latest flagship wine, their Bella’s Blend. This vintage, which won an impressive 92 Point score fromWine Enthusiast Magazine (who declared the wine to be their official Cellar Selection), is easily the best we have sampled to date. Today’s 2008 Ehret Family Winery Bella’s Blend is a delicious, complex, wine that is drinking beautifully, now, but is destined for greatness as it gains a bit of bottle aging. Pair with a spicy rubbed steak or a hearty, spicy pasty dish. This beautiful blend receives our highest recommendation.

Mission Report:

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo 'Gramolere' DOCG

Mission Codename: The Grandest ‘Gramolere’

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exceptional single vineyard Barolo with an amazing history.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Fratelli Alessandria

Wine Subject: 2006 Barolo ‘Gramolere’ DOCG

Winemaker: Vittore Alessandria

Backgrounder:

The greatest of all Italian wines are arguably made with from the Nebbiolo grape. Barolo, from the Piedmont made this grape famous, and for good reason. Most people don’t give Barolo enough time and drink them young, but those patient enough to wait at least ten years, and often as much as 20 plus years are handsomely rewarded with a wine that is the ultimate expression of the grape. The most prized bottlings of Barolo are those from an exceptional single vineyard such as today’s from the Monvigliero in Verduno.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and deep garnet and ruby red with very pink and orange hues along the edges and a dark clear core. Clusters of slow fat legs ring the glass that are followed by thinner legs hang for a moment before slowly descending to the wine below.

Smell – This wine has a rich and redolent nose that really opens after decanting (an absolute must with this wine) with aromas of ripe spiced plum and tangy cherry tangy along with other earthy red and black berries are layered over delicious coffee, herbal including black licorice, rosemary and a thyme laced base. Highly complex, add floral violets, savory and mushroom notes, dusty earth, zesty Italian tar, and toasted oak.

Feel – Full-bodied, dry and bold with firm but silky textured, dusty, almost powdery and etched tannins (softens as it breathes) that generously expands to edges of the palate. Exceptional vibrant acidity and a earthy textured minerality that lingers on and on.

Taste – Rich, ripe and deeply complex initially but even more so after this wine opens to reveal its classic bold character. Balanced and its complex herbal and licorice over its plump, tangy and tart red fruit including tangy cherry, plum and raspberry. Zesty tar, floral violets, mushroom, dusty earth and a touch of cedar cigar box emerge and linger framing the fruit perfectly. As this wine opens, after several hours, the flavors integrate and reveal themselves.

Finish – Extremely long with tangy and sweet cherry, raspberry and spiced plum melding with the herbal, earthy and savory notes as this wine’s textured tannins, dusty minerality and acidity linger with slowly fading.

Conclusion – The 2006 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo ‘Gramolere’ DOCG is quite simply one of the finest Barolo we’ve reviewed this year. This is a wine that is both bold, focused but also elegant, representing the best of what Barolo is known for. This wine’s textured mouthfeel grasps and frames the fruit and other complex flavors long ito the finish. The epitome of Barolo is its bold elegant power. An exceptional wine that is perhaps five to ten years from getting close to its peak. As all exceptional Barolo, we love pairing this classic with simple buttered tagliatelle noodles and shaved truffles. If enjoying this wine now, be sure to give it plenty of time (open several hours before) or decant, otherwise cellar it for up to ten to fifteen and save it for a special occasion. Buona sera & cin cin!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Vittore Alessandria

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Show through the wine the elegance and the balance of my territory: the hills of the Langhe area.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Wine is the poetry of the Earth.” (Mario Soldati)

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: The first Barolo produced by our cellar was a 1870 Barolo!


WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Vittore, We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Barolo Gramolere DOCG today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

VITTORE: I’m excited to be featured today on The Wine Spies, thanks for giving this opportunity.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

VITTORE: I born and I lived in a small village: Verduno in the middle of the Barolo area surrounded by Nebbiolo vineyards. For my family making wine it’s a tradition that has gone on for 150 years.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

VITTORE: All the wines and the winemakers that are able to give emotions, showing the “terroir” of origin and also stimulating the knowledge of this world.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

VITTORE: For wine consumers that love wine.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

VITTORE: Gramolere is a cru in Monforte d’Alba located between Gavarini and Bussia. Our vineyard has got South exposure, is at an altitude of 400 meters and is a over 40 year old. A big structure and character are the features of the Barolo from Monforte. The wine from Gramolere hill is characterized by delicate notes of herbs that melt into the typical complex scents of leather and liquorice.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

VITTORE: I think that it could be delicious with a stew of veal. But in any case the best pairing is with a good company!!

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Langhe and Barolo region so special?

VITTORE: There are many reasons that make the Langhe so lucky: for example the personal relationship between the producer and its vineyards, its casks and its customers. That it’s possible because, generally, in our region the cellars are family owned ! An other very special feature is the beautiful landscape – very charming-!

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

VITTORE: First of all with the glass! :) Then I think that the best way is going deeper, to the origin, for example visiting the winery, meeting the wine producer and knowing the territory in which the grape is grown, discovering traditions, old recipes and different flavors.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

VITTORE: Verduno is unique: it’s one of the eleven villages where you can produce Barolo and the only one where you can produce Verduno Pelaverga, one of the smallest and most particular DOC of Italy. I would suggest to try it!

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the approximate location of Fratelli Alessandria can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Vin de Manies Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Daniel’s Opus

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red to Vin de Manies, to investigate reports that Opus One alum, Daniel Manies, had crafted an ultra-premium Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. If the wine is superb, grab up all available cases for our Cabernet-faithful Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Chateau Manzanita Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Vin De Manies Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve – Napa Valley

Winemaker: Daniel Manies

Backgrounder: Today’s incredible Cabernet Saivignon comes to us from winemaker, Daniel Manies, whose work at the fabled Opus One helped to secure that coveted brand as the global powerhouse that it is.

The Napa Valley is revered worldwide as the ultimate area in which to produce fine Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2006 vintage has produced some remarkable examples and we were lucky to get our spy-hands on today’s fine offering from our new friends at Chateau Manzanita. Today’s wine is a remarkable wine at a remarkable price. We suggest that you stock up during this once in a lifetime opportunity.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and foreboding, with hues of opaque black cherry juice. The wine has a deep and inky heart and at the edge of the glass, an fine ring of pure ruby catches the light. Swirl the wine, and it continues to spin for some time. After it settles, tall columns of wine-stained tears move very slowly down the glass, grouping themselves into tight clusters.

Smell – Dark and powerful, with layers of dark fruit, spice, oak and earthen character. The wine leads with black cherry, cedar, overripe blackberry and dark bakers chocolate. As the wine breathes, it really opens up, revealing additional aromas of cigar box, espresso bean, cassis, warm brown spice, dried fall leaves and black pepper.

Feel – Firm but plush, the wine shows power andbalance on the palate. Soft and elegant at the mid palate, the wine quickly coats the entire mouth, introducing a crush velvet dryness that spreads outward to the lips and cheeks.

Taste – Bold and dark, with powerful black cherry, dark chocolate, cigar box, overripe blackberry, black plum, braised fig (with a slight singe), dark spice, black pepper, oak and dark tobacco leaf.

Finish – Ultra long, lead by black cherry, tobacco and earthy chocolate, and fading to spice, oak, black pepper and flinty minerals.

Conclusion – This is a bold, deeply layered and delicious wine that expresses a great balance betweenpower and elegance. This is a difficult feat for a wine, especially for a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon but winemaker, Daniel Manies, has brought to bear all of his experience at Opus One in creating today’s *2006 Vin De Manies Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve – Napa Valley”. This wine is a delicious wine with plenty of character, dark fruit, earth, spice and dark minerals. Pair with a thick, juicy steak or enjoy it all on its own. Built to age, this wine can be enjoyed now or laid down for the next decade or more. This wine, especially considering today’s price, gets our heartiestWine Spies recommendation!

2009 Optima Wine Cellars Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Mission Codename: The Revenge of Eternity

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Optima Winery, a winery that we first placed under surveillance in 2009. Secure the newest vintage of their Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, a wine that we have shown – and loved – during the past two successive vintages.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Optima Winery

Wine Subject: 2009 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Winemaker: Mike Duffy

Backgrounder:

Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Dry Creek ValleyZinfandel, which are characterized by their balanced flavors, are gaining in popularity with our Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark magenta, with a darker but perfectly clear core. The edges of the wine show off a lovely band of purple. After swirling, the wine settles quickly, leaving behind short clusters of wine-stained tears that move very slowly down the glass.

Smell – Warm and lush with a rush of blackberry, black cherry, bramble, brown spice and tobacco leaf. Under these, cigar box, tobacco leaf, dried fall leaves and black pepper round out the nose.

Feel – Plush and velvet smooth across the front palate. Then, the wine gains a grippiness at the edge of the palate, introducing a soft, spreading dryness.

Taste – Mixed berries and spice, with blackberry, wild blueberry, wild strawberry, raspberry and warm brown baking spice. After the wine opens up a little, these flavors are soon joined by black cherry, leather, black pepper, cigar box, dried fall leaves and softly toasty oak.

Finish – Very long, with a plush and elegant overall feel. Black fruit flavors gently yield to red fruit. Then, cedar, earth and spice are sustained, eventually fading to a soft black pepper flavor.

Conclusion – As impressive as ever, today’s 2009 Optima Winery Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel the same sort of delicious and exciting experience as prior vintages of this wine. Where previous vintages of this wine showed power and hard edges, this lovely 2009 is more elegant. Plush, lush and very approachable, this delicious Zinfandel is a wonderful and very food-friendly wine. It would be equally at home with a zestyBBQ as it would with finer fare. There is a lot of fruit to be enjoyed, here, and the plush feel of the wine seems to bind the flavors on the palate in a very elegant manner. 2009 is shaping up to be a fantastic overall vintage for California Zinfandels, which is great news, as vintages on either side were relatively small. If you love really fantastic Zinfandel, dear operative, follow our advice and stock up on this delicious example from our friends at Ootima Winery!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Mike Duffy

DATE OF BIRTH: May 1959

PLACE OF BIRTH: Oregon

WINE EDUCATION: Graduate of UC Davis in Enology

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: When I finished my Enology degree from UCD in 1981, I was already employed as the Assistant Winemaker at Trefethen Vineyards in Napa Valley. “I was very motivated to earn my degree and start working after being a broke college student for so long. I moved to Field Stone as winemaker in 1988, studying under the legendary Andre Tchelistcheff. For nine years, I worked full-time at Field Stone, saving weekends to tend to my own fledging winery, Optima.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Cabernet Sauvignon


WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mike. I know how busy you are right now, so I really appreciate the opportunity to talk with you – if even for a few scant minutes, today.

MIKE: As always, it is great to be back with you – and your Operatives, Agent Red.

RED: Thanks, Mike. Tell me, was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MIKE: Yes, I was raised around wine. My first job in High School was helping my parents, Bill and Della, at their wine shop, that is what sparked my interest. Later I played with making wine out of anything I could get out of my parents garden. I would take flats of strawberries, peaches and blackberries and craft them into wine. One time I even raided the rose bushes in the neighborhood so I could make a rose petal champagne

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MIKE: UC Davis gave me an excellent technical background. It was the basis for my ability to solve problems when they arise. The experience of making wine came from getting in and getting dirty at my internship at Trefethen in 1980. That’s where it all came together for me. I have a unique work ethic and a strong mechanical background, both of which I have my father to thank for. Both those qualities served me well when I left the academic world and helped distinguish me from other classmates and co-workers.

RED: Great places to get your footing! What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MIKE: Andre Tchelistcheff was the biggest influence on how I make Cabernet, and the greatest source of perspective, history and wine knowledge that I have been fortunate enough to have enjoyed. He approached the entire winemaking endeavor, from the vineyard in the spring, to harvest, and through barrel aging, as one integrated whole. I learned to take Alexander Valley Cabernet and to use its brilliant fruit as the basis for my wines. “Don’t bother making one of those huge Cabernets like many do in Napa, Mike. Anyone can make wines like those.” Andre would say. He inspired me to make a Cabernet that spoke to the virtues of Alexander Valley. A wine with an intense core of fruit and coco, balanced with vanilla and oak. Complex and powerful, yet subtle and soft. He also impressed on me the critical concept of not manipulating the wine, rather helping it become its best.

RED: You don’t know how many winemakers mention Andre as an influence! How long have you been making wine?

MIKE: Well one could say since I was a child but 2009 was my 30th harvest in Napa and Sonoma. I still enjoy the “seasonality” of winemaking.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

MIKE: Ah, our 2009 Zinfandel from Dry Creek Valley. This vintage has a lot of really great fruit. It just jumps out of the glass. The mouthfeel is rich and supple, with lots of complexity. And it is distinctively Dry Creek Valley , with its spicy elements. Some people call it “Peppery”, but I think that it’s a lot more complex than that.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MIKE: One word: BBQ. Nicol and I took the kids camping recently. Dinner was slow smoked baby back ribs. We paired dinner with several other wines, and in fact a number of cold beers were required for its proper preparation. The Zinfandel was a perfect match. The fruit complemented, but was not overwhelmed by the spices and the wine was a refreshing addition to the meal. Really nice.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Dry Creek Valley such a special place for Zinfandel?

MIKE: To tell the truth, I think it is a number of factors, all coming together to contribute to Dry Creek Valleys success growing Zinfandel. Notable are the different soils, the topography which creates differing microclimates and the long tradition of Zinfandel vineyards here in Northern Sonoma County . Additionally, yet seldom mentioned are the guys in Dry Creek Valley doing the farming. It is not uncommon at all for third and fourth generation families to continuing the rich farming tradition here. When you contract to buy Zinfandel grapes from a fellow who was born on the same ranch, you know you are in good hands.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MIKE: I began making wine for my own creative satisfaction. I worked for several top wineries that produced Cabernet, and there was always some step in the process when I said to myself, “If this were my wine I would do this differently”. That need to satisfy my own creativity from beginning to end is why I started my own winery when I was 25. My approach to winemaking combines art and practicality. “I always liked the honesty and hard work of agriculture and to me, winemaking is the ultimate fusion of agriculture and art.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MIKE: Late Spring and Summer are “Slow” times at the winery. We have minimal wine work to do, just maintenance really. So now is the time for my other interests. I am building some furniture from some beautiful Maple. I have several very old machine tools ready to rebuild. I am midway through the restoration of a ‘68 Ford truck, and have several other vintage cars waiting patiently. Oh, and now that its summer and hotter than heck, I have a large block retaining wall at home to finish.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

MIKE: I enjoy cooking; to me this is another form of taking an ingredient and using your creativity to make something incredible. My wife thinks I cook so well that she refuses to cook anymore. I love watching all of the cooking shows on TV, especially Iron Chef. I just can’t get enough, they are very inspiring.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MIKE: I enjoy drinking a dry Gewurztraminer from Sonoma County, Anderson Valley, or from the Alsace region of France. It’s a wonderful wine that you can drink alone or with Thai, Asian or Mexican food all of which I enjoy cooking and eating. The best examples have a depth and a perfume that is unbelievable.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans. Your Alexander Valley Cab is stupendous!

MIKE: Thanks, very much, Red. Now, back to the grapes!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Optima Winery in Healdsburg can be seen in this satellite photo.

2008 Windsor Oaks Vineyards Reserve Pinot Noir 4 Dijon Clones

Mission Codename: +115.777.667.459

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red back to the fabled Windsor Oaks Vineyards, a winery that also grows grapes for some of the most sought-after wines in California. Secure their own 4 Dijon Clones Russian River Reserve Pinot Noir, a brilliant, delicious Pinot Noir.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Windsor Oaks Vineyards

Wine Subject: 4 Dijon Clones Russian River Valley Reserve Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Julie Lumgair

Backgrounder:

Windsor Oaks Vineyards grow grapes that go on to become fine wines from a handful prestigious producers. They also produce a small handful of distinctive wines under their own label. These wines represent the best of the best, often at a fraction of the price of those other wines.

The Russian River Valley, in Sonoma County, produces Pinot Noir of remarkable distinction. The cooler maritime conditions of the region make the Russian River Valley ideal for growing Pinot Noir. The Russian River Valley in Sonoma is particularly well suited to producing exceptional Pinot Noir. This AVA was officially designated in 1983, but many of the wines in the region used the designation as early as the 1970s (early in California’s wine history) with the many of the vines having been first planted in the early 1900s.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – With a beautiful heart of pure ruby, color is evenly concentrated from core to edge. Swirl the wine, and tall, thin, wine-colored sears fall slowly from high up on the glass wall.

Smell – Deep, lush cherry, young strawberry, red currant, soft brown spice and bramble take the lead. As the wine opens, it reveals cola, wild strawberry, sweet cigar box, toasty vanilla and flint appear.

Feel – Soft, round and tender entry. As the wine crosses the mid-palate, it takes on a plush, medium-bodied feel. Bright acids balance against very fine tannins.

Taste – Red cherry, red currant, wild strawberry and bramble bush step out in front. As the wine opens up, juicy raspberry, black tea leaf, cranberry, sweet cedar and soft brown spice round out the palate.

Finish – Juicy and very long, with clean, sweet fruit that slowly fades, giving way to earthy spice and woody elements.

Conclusion – We tasted this wine at a favorite local restaurant, sharing our review bottles with restaurant staff and neighboring tables. Everyone was crazy about this approachable, delicious wine! Loaded with red fruit flavors and exuding deep aromatics, this wine is one of the finest Russian River Pinots we have tasted in some time. Our new found reviewers agreed, too! Before too long, we were out of wine. If you love balanced, delicious Pinot Noir with just the right amount of complexity, we give today’s 2008 Windsor Oaks 4 Dijon Clones Reserve Pinot Noir our heartiest Wine Spies recommendation.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Julie Hagler Lumgair

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Karma…I never, never cut corners. The only way to know you’ve done your job as a winemaker is to pour some and watch folks’ smiles…then recall all those long days and know it was just right.
So what is “not cutting corners?” Besides just working hard to follow all four seasons, I passionately believe in following the fruit and expressing in the glass a tricky hierarchy: the vintage, then the vineyard, then show some moves and show the vineyard blocks and clones and my own style! True Estate winemaking is harder than blended approaches (nowhere to hide when Mother Nature throws your geographical a curve ball) but extremely rewarding and absolutely beautiful if you keep an open mind and follow the clues Mother Nature provides. It is never a formula, but a living study. This is why it is a pleasure and privilege to make anywhere from 1 to 7 different Pinots or 4 Chardonnays, etc. in a given vintage. Just follow, study, then express!

I guess I’m every bit at home in the vineyard as on the crushpad or bottling day. It’s all about the ART of growing fine wine for our whole team in the field and the winery, then not taking a strong start for granted. Perfect picking is key, but just a starting line for the race ahead. I hand-craft wines literally barrel by barrel, from individual vineyard blocks, with a winery team that truly grew up in the vineyards and still work in the vines every week. It is the epitome of careful winemaking, as our whole team actually planted those vines and tends the fruit year round. We do not yet 3-tier distribute our estate wines, but choose instead to sell direct from the cellar door, and now with Wine Spies!

My muse is my husband, estate and vineyard manager Douglas Lumgair, who has worked with our general partner, Bob Stein, and vineyard foreman, Lupe Ruiz, for 20+ years. Douglas and Lupe pulled out 175 acres of old vines starting in the 1990’s and have reworked and replanted the perfect combinations of varietal clones and rootstocks to make Windsor Oaks a crown jewel of Sonoma County. Winemaker’s heaven! Our vineyard team is a family and true “old Sonoma style” village of 20 people that believe that “good enough” isn’t even close – our goal over all these years has been to deliver the absolute best wine grapes to our own small and focused artisan brand that uses ~9% of the vineyard’s fruit, and to dazzle the 25+ boutique and artisan wineries that use our grapes in their beautiful wines. In fact, I make wine for some of our other winery friends…but our lips are sealed! We are deeply honored to grow for some of the finest artisan winemakers in the business. It really is a big neighborly approach….

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Share the love and follow the Golden Rule! We are fortunate to have such amazing friends and family – thank you!”

WINEMAKER’S EDUCATION: Short answer is lots of hard work on a path from Rx to OTC to food to culinary to viticulture to wine, with a lot of stops on the way for added education thanks to the great folks at a number of universities, many industry resources, midnight oil and mentors, including notable farming and chef friends plus great winemaker mentors.

Born as a 5th generation farmer, Julie started her journey of sensory studies and made her mark early in oral care pharmaceutical and OTC oral care products at Procter & Gamble, through a series of global merger team assignments working on how to overcome serious problems of the palate, upper gastrointestinal tract and oral care challenges for many people including a focus on improving quality of life for immunocompromised patients with cancer, HIV-AIDS and oral surgery complications. Success in food, culinary and wine followed. To this day, she believes it was studying the details of how people lost touch with their senses and palates, and how they could recover some of the lost territory, that showed a different path to creating wines to hit a broad array of magical places for so many people.

Cheers!

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Julie. We are thrilled to be showing your 2008 4 Dijon Clones Reserve Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

JULIA: Thanks, Agent Red! It is great to be back with you and your Operatives, today!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JULIA: Sometimes the road to the cellar door goes around the bend, and back! I grew up in a dry county in Tennessee and learned about fine wine through my parents encouraging travel abroad in Europe which really celebrates its local traditions of farming and fermenting the best of a very specific region. That was eye-opening to see local foods, cheeses, beers and wines with the people behind each enjoying them seamlessly with family and friends, and sharing them with us, too! I felt like an insider…it was transformative. I then had a wonderful college mentor who was a fine wine collector and shared knowledge and tasting with a generous heart. Oops, I just told you all the stuff before I even turned 21… Well, now I’m, ummm, not 21, and my love of wine has found a prefect home in Sonoma County. This is my modern paradise with the same magical combination of local food, wine, hospitality, friends and family from all those years ago in Europe.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JULIA: I think the ultimate winemaker an style maker is Mother Nature. Growing up a farmer, you realize she really makes everything, and we wait and make the most of the gifts. On a more local field, for quality and varietal expertise, I’m thankful every day for over seven vintages of advice, support and input from all of the great winemakers that Windsor Oaks has grown grapes for over the years. We do a LOT of grower tastings each vintage, so sometimes the math adds up to my own experiments and key lots plus over 12 more looks at a given varietal. It’s like seeing multiple harvests in just a year. Since my husband, Douglas, and I are both professional wine judges as well, I give lots respect to that view as well. Seeing your own region, then seeing so much from around the world is truly humbling and deeply educational. Tastes great, too.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JULIA: Folks that appreciate crafted wine made with artisan quality and heart.

Plus, folks that actually want to drink wine that over-delivers the price point, and if they call the winery, they could talk to the winemaker. Back to that “connection” point.

RED: Please tell me a about the wine we are featuring today.

JULIA: Our 2008 4 Clone Pinot Noir is a complex and age worthy wine showing deep, classic Russian River Valley fruit. The blend of four different clones of Pinot Noir combines elegant red berry and black cherry fruit, sassafras, cola and complex spices, while slow aging in French oak frames the core of fruit with toast and vanilla. It’s one of our favorite wines, but we only made 225 cases!

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JULIA: Grab some wild salmon, marinate it in a little red wine, soy, garlic and orange juice, then grill it to medium rare and serve with a simple garnish of chanterelles sautéed in olive oil.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Russian River Valley so special?

JULIA: Location , location, location! Welcome to Rodeo Drive for Chardonnay and Pinot noir in particular. Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley, is just fifty-five short miles north of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge and 30 miles from the Pacific Ocean by way of the Russian River. Winegrowing here is built on a long tradition that produces some of the finest wines in the world. Windsor Oaks Estate vineyards are right in the direct line of influence for the Russian River gap that funnels the Pacific Ocean’s maritime influences through the western mountain range.

There is no better place in California to grow Pinot Noir than the Russian River Valley. We are blessed with warm days, moderated by cooling fog at night, burning off by mid-morning. It creates the perfect micro climate for the delicate Pinot Noir grape to ripen without losing its subtle and complex varietal character.

Of course, it takes the full talent of the vineyard team and winemaker to unlock the magic – it’s nature and nurture. Just like mining for diamonds, then polishing them to brilliance. I just cut and polish what Mother Nature sends us each year!

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JULIA: Now that’s it’s summertime, we’re busy hosting guests at the property. We have one of the most unique visitor experiences in Sonoma County, and we love showing off! We recently hosted an event called Pinot by the Pond, with great live music, barbeque and of course plenty of Windsor Oaks Pinot Noir. It was a beautiful day and our guests had a great time. Check out our website to find out about upcoming events, including our Tour de Windsor Oaks hiking and biking weekend in August.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

JULIA: Wine is one of life’s simple luxuries and it brings us together. Drink what inspires you and enjoy the moment. Cheers!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Windsor Oaks Vineyards and Winery in the Chalk Hill AVA can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Sheldon Wines Deviant Velocity Petite Sirah

Mission Codename: A Constant Deviant Velocity

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Sheldon Wines and procure their the new release of their Deviant Velocity Petite Sirah, a 2007 that is one of their most popular wines.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Sheldon Wines

Wine Subject: 2007 Deviant Velocity Petite Sirah

Winemaker: Dylan Sheldon

Backgrounder: Petite Sirah’s California roots dates back to when it was believed to be a close relative of the Syrah grape. Later it would be found to be genetically identical to the Durif, named for its after French discoverer François Durif who found that the varietal was a Syrah grape pollinated with Peloursin flowers. Its smaller berries with higher skin to pulp ratio leads to more intense flavors. Another benefit of the smaller berries are tighter clusters that are more resistant to mildew. Currently Petite Sirah is less popular in France and increasingly popular in the United States

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Darkest ruby red hues, with a darker heart. This darkly foreboding wine is only slightly, not inky-black like some California Petite Sirah. After a hearty swirl, skinny, janky tears form branching chains as they move slowly down the glass.

Smell – Heady, sweet and lush with a plethora of exciting aromatics. Sweet cherry cordial and rustic spice mingle with earthy, dusty bramble, black cherry, dried fall leaves, fresh tobacco leaf, and a subtle hint of lavender all provide a rich fullness on the nose.

Feel – Soft and cool at the tip of the tongue, the wine races across the palate, eventually settling onto the mid-palate. There, fine-grained tannins give the wine a plush feel that slowly telegraphs to the edge of the palate. Eventually, lips and cheeks are well-coated with tannin and flavor.

Taste – Dark and bold with tart red cherry, wild strawberry, young raspberry and red currant out in front. These are closely followed by dark cocoa powder, black currant, spice, dried violets and cracked pepper.

Finish – Very long, softly drying and packed with red fruit flavors, that gradually yield to black fruit, spice, minerals and dried dark flowers. After all of the fruit has faded, cracked pepper can be felt along the gumline.

Conclusion – After too long of a hiatus, I am so pleased to welcome Sheldon Wines back to our pages. Today’s 2007 Deviant Velocity Petite Sirah is a very unique and very delicious wine that most would fail to recognize as a Petite Sirah. In fact, the winery leaves the varietal off of the front label, relying on the name of the wine to intrigue people and draw them in for a taste. According to Tobe Sheldon, most people taste the wine and then fall in love. When they learn that it is Petite Sirah, their eyes go wide. This is not to say that the wine is unlike a Petite Sirah – but it is a little different. It does deviate slightly, from the norm, by delivering a much brighter, more red experience than the darker, deeper purple flavors of many a Cali Petite. This very approachable wine represents remarkable balance and we love it!. Don’t miss out on this very drinkable, very food-friendly wine.

Mission Report:

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Sheldon Wines Tasting Room, in Santa Rosa, California, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2009 Amapola Creek Monte Rosso Vineyard Zinfandel

Mission Codename: Lifetime Achievement

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red in search of a stellar, single-vineyard California Zinfandel, worthy of our Operative’s exacting tastes.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Amapola Creek Vineyards & Winery

Wine Subject: 2009 Zinfandel – Monte Rosso Vineyards -Viñas Antiguas

Winemaker: Richard Arrowood

Winemaker Backgrounder: Today, Agent Red brings you a wine from legendary winemaster, Richard Arrowood, who’s distinguished winemaking career began in the 1960’s. In 1974, mister Arrowood became the winemaker – and employee number one – at Sonoma County’s Chateau St. Jean. Over the next decade, Arrowood focused on crafting some of the worlds finest single vineyard wines in the region. Today, Richard Arrowood focuses on crafting stunning wines at his own Amapola Creek Vineyards & Winery.

Vineyard Backgrounder: The fabled Monte Rosso Vineyard, owned by the Louis M. Martini Winery since 1938, is considered to be among the most highly regarded vineyards in the Sonoma Valley. The vineyard is also considered to be the jewel in Louis M. Martini’s crown. Louis M. Martini sells their own 2009 Monte Rosso Zinfandel for $50.

The vineyard sits at the southern end of the Sonoma Valley AVA. One of the oldest wine growing regions in California, the first vines being were planted in the early 1800s. The AVA is located along California Route 12 and its eastern boundary are the southern end of the Mayacama mountains. The unique micro-climate with less rainfall and fog than other parts of the region along with its unique soil provides ideal growing conditions for Zinfandel.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark burgundy with the look of Concord grape juice at the darker heart of the wine. At the edge, a band of garnet encircles the glass. After swirling, short, thick, wine-stained legs take a long time to form, before moving very slowly down the glass.

Smell – Lush and balanced, with an initial rush of blackberry, black cherry and and sweet Bing cherry. Just behind these, aromas of blackberry bramble, dark chocolate, sweetwood, brown spice, dried tobacco, cracked pepper and subtle mint.

Feel – Instantly grippy, with plush tannins giving the wine a crushed velvet feel that spreads throughout the palate. A lively acidity frames the fruit, driving flavors all around the palate.

Taste – Deep, dark and purple, with delicious dark plum, blackberry preserves, black cherry and stewed plum. As the wine opens up, it also reveals tobacco leaf, black tea leaf, smoky dark spice, black pepper and flinty minerals.

Finish – Super long and velvety with sustained black fruit that gradually yields to earthy flavors, spice and cracked pepper at the very end.

Conclusion – Today’s exquisite 2009 Amapola Creek Monte Rosso Zinfandel is dark, delicious and very balanced wine. With plenty of dark fruit, this wine is long on flavor and with its plush feel, our tasting panel found itself taking large gulps of the wine – rather than dainty sips. This is a wine that encourages you to really drink it. And, to inhale it; the nose is simultaneously sweet and dark. The more you swirl the wine, the more both aromas and flavors really come to life. Fine tannins give the wine a velvety feel. For a relatively young wine, it drinks perfectly – which makes us think that it will only get better with more age. This wine gets our very hearty recommendation.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Amapola Creek Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2009 Costa De Oro Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: All that glitters

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Respond to reports of a stellar Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir from Costa Del Oro own Gold Coast Estate Vineyard. If the wine meets our exacting standards, procure an ample allocation for our Pinot-loving Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Costa Del Oro

Wine Subject: 2009 Pinot Noir – Estate Gold Coast Vineyard – Santa Maria Valley

Winemaker: Gary Burk

Backgrounder: Santa Barbara County’s Pinot Noir may have become famous by the movie Sideways, but the tradition of wine growing and winemaking dates back to the Spanish missionaries but after prohibition many of the vines disappeared. In the early 1970s vines began to reappear and in just a few years, however unlikely, the region began to develop a reputation for producing exceptional Bugundian varietals challenging Oregon and New Zealand in the production of exceptional Pinot Noir.

The Santa Maria Valley and Santa Ynez Valley where the fruit for this wine was sourced have maritime climates influenced and tempered by the Pacific Ocean and soils of sand and clay loam which suits Pinot Noir exceptionally well.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Light cherry juice hues, lightening to fine pink at the edge of the glass. After swirling, skinny, slow-moving tears start from high up on the glass wall.

Smell – Warm and sweet with lush bright cherry juice, wild strawberry, raspberry and soft spice. After the wine breathes for a few minutes, it reveals dried orange peel, floral dried violet, blackberry, subtle smoked meat and a hint of black pepper.

Feel – Voluptuous and round on entry. As the wine crosses the mid-palate, fine-grained tannins and flinty minerals introduce a gradually spreading dryness.

Taste – Wild strawberry, black cherry, dried rose petals and a hint of black tea lead off. The more you swirl this wine, the more follow on flavors are revealed, including blackberry, subtle dried orange peel, smoky sweetwoods, forest floor and a hint of zingy black pepper at the very end.

Finish – Long and filled with flavor, red fruit gradually yields to darker earthy flavors, with minerals, spice and black pepper at the tail end.

Conclusion – The 2009 Costa Del Oro Pinot Noir, was a great find and we are thrilled to bring you this delicious wine, today. Fragrant and lush, our tasting panel found itself inhaling this wine over and over – before finally taking a first delicious sip. On the palate, this wine shows beautiful balance, presenting wonderful fruit, along with just the right amount earthiness. This wine have a vibrant, alive quality that invites repeated sipping – and spirited discussion about the many wonderful qualities of the wine. Decant for at least 30 minutes and watch this wine really come to life!

Mission Report:

Greetings Gary,

We ask all of our wineries to participate in a winemaker email interview. Please forward the interview, found below, to your winemaker. His or her answers can be as brief or as detailed as desired and will be incorporated into our sale listing.

Top Secret Deadline: (date, 2 days prior to sale)

Cheers,

Agent Red 
The Wine Spies, LLC 
http://thewinespies.com 
agentred@thewinespies.com – email 
(707) 628-1855 – direct



WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Gary Burke

WINE EDUCATION: No formal training. On the job – and lots of reading and drinking!

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Worked for Au Bon Climat and Qupe’ wineries from ‘94-’02. Started CDOwinery during this time. Left in ‘02 to spend full time on costa de Oro.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Less is more”. We are hands off the wine as much as possible, allowing the vineyard to express itself as much as possible. I believe in old-world techniques and styles and try to make pinot that is aromatic and textural more than anything else.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1994



WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Gary. We are thrilled to be showing your 2009 Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noirtoday. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

GARY BURKE: Thanks, Agent Red. I’m really happy to be able to share our wines with your Operatives, today.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

GARY: No specific experience made me fall in love with wine but I do remember the first great wine I had – ‘61DRC La Tache. I had never tasted anything so complex in my life and it really changed my concept of what a wine is capable of.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

GARY: My mentors, without a doubt, are Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat and Bob Lindquist of Qupe’. They introduced me to so many great wines and wine experiences and they taught me a lot about style. Also, Jim Adelman at ABC/Qupe’ was a huge influence, always answering my winemaking questions.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

GARY: I think, ultimately, I make wine for myself but I definitely take into account the consumer and to a certain extent, critics. I am trying to produce wine that is balanced, layered and complex and I think most people want that but everyone has a different idea of what that is in the glass. In the end, I am trying to make wine that I am proud to put out into the world.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

GARY: The 2009 vintage produced very pretty pinot noir. Our ‘09 Estate Pinot is delicate and layered with aromas and flavors of red berries, asian spices, floral notes, underbrush, and earth. It is silky textured and complete throughout the palate. I think a classic pinot lover will really enjoy this wine.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

GARY: I like things off the grill with pinot noir. I think the smokiness of the grill plays off the earthiness of pinot in a way that allows the berry fruit to shine through. A beautiful piece of fresh fish like mahi mahi with a light herb marinade would be a great combination.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Santa Maria Valley such a special place for Pinot Noir?

GARY: Santa Maria is special for pinot because of the way the valley is open to the ocean which allows for the fog and breezes off the ocean to keep our valley extremely cool. Our growing season is longer than most in California and this allows for slow ripening and bright acidity in the grapes. This translates to wines with good vibrancy, great food compatibility, and longevity.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

GARY: My time is taken up between the vineyard & winery, the tasting room, and outside sales. I am always bouncing back and forth between these. It is time-consuming but all part of running a small winery.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

GARY: My bottom line is always drink what you enjoy. I hate the idea of drinking wines because of scores or because someone else thinks its great. Ultimately, wine is about pleasure, so try new wines but always use pleasure as your barometer of what you are going to buy and drink.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our Operatives?

GARY: I would love to invite them to come visit our tasting room in Santa Maria. If you like this Pinot, I am sure you will enjoy a variety of our wines.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Costa Del Oro Winery & Marketplace, where this wine and its brethren can be purchased can be seen in this satellite photo.

2010 Frecciarossa Sillery Pinot Nero White

Mission Codename: The Red Clay of Lombardy

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure an exclusive allocation of a rare Italian white for our operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Frecciarossa

Wine Subject: 2010 Sillery Otrepo Pavese Pinot Nero White

Winemaker:

Backgrounder: The Otrepo Pavese in Italy’s Lombardy region, represents over 40 communes south of the Po River. Many of the vineyards and wineries in this region sell their grapes to wineries in the Piedmont. Some of the specialized wines in this region include the Oltrepo Pavese Buttafucco and Altrepo Pavese Sangue di Giuda. Today’s selection is 100% Pinot Nero but is vinified to keep the wine a refreshing white.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Brilliantly clear and extremely pale straw-yellow in color that becomes nearly clear at the edges. When swirled, this wine settles quickly in the glass and leaves widely spaced medium legs on the side of the glass.

Smell – Fresh and bright with aromas of tart citrus along with hints of fresh tropical and red fruit as well. Just under the fruit are notes of white flower blossoms, soft exotic spice and even subtle green herbal and mineral notes.

Feel – This dry white wine is full-bodied with vibrant and fresh acidity that frames the fruit and other flavors. Fine tannins and mineral notes hit at the mid-palate and dries the tongue as the flavors linger.

Taste – Flavors of fresh citrus, tropical and red fruit are framed by white floral notes. Tart, almost tingly acidity and mineral notes keeps the flavor profile fresh and lively as the citrus lingers on and on.

Finish – Clean, and long with the tart and tangy citrus fruit lasting and drying the palate as the floral, mineral and soft herbal notes fade.

Conclusion – The 2010 Frecciarossa Sillery Oltrep Pavese Pinot Nero White is a fantastic alternative to your typical fresh and dry white. Highly aromatic and vibrant on the nose and crisp and refreshing on the palate. Enjoy this wine with fresh grilled seafood, ripe cheese or your appetizer and no need to cellar this wine as its drinking lovely right now.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Frecciarossa can be seen in this satellite photo.