2007 Bugay Vineyards Sonoma County Zinfandel

Thumb

Mission Codename: Going Up

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: After a protracted surveillance, send Agent Red to infiltrate Bugay Wines and Vineyards, the producer of some of Agent Red’s favorite wines. Retrieve Bugay’s exceptional 2006 Zinfandel for our demanding Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Bugay Wines and Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2007 Zinfandel Mayacama Mountains

Winemaker: Randall Watkins

Backgrounder: Agent Red first learned of today’s winery nearly five years ago – during a clandestine mission to a public tasting. Red tasted dozens of wines that day, and declared a Bugay wine to be the best wine of the entire event. Unfortunately, Bugay proved to be a difficult winery to infiltrate. Their limited-production wines are almost always impossible to procure, given that they are usually snapped up by a loyal and eager wine club. Persistence paid off for Agent Red and his hard work is your gain, today. Please read his full review, plus his interview with winemaker, Randall Watkins, below:

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Darkest garnet. Perfectly clear, and darkening at its core. After the wine is spun, it coats the wall of the glass with beautiful magenta. After a moment, the wine coalesces into tall, thin legs that run slowly down the glass.

Smell – Blackberry preserves, blueberry, dark raspberry, black cherry and soft brown spice mix with dried leaves, bramble, sweetwoods, black pepper and toasty oak.

Feel – Cool, soft and round on entry. Bright and mouthcoating, with a grippy feeling that leads to a plush dryness that spreads from the edges, inward.

Taste – Darkest black cherry, smoky overripe blackberry and dark plum are followed by braised cassis, braised fig, bramble, dried black flower petals and black pepper.

Finish – Ultra-long and darkly juicy, loaded with mix berry fruit and soft spice. As flavors dwindle, earthy bramble, oak and dark flower petals linger.

Conclusion – We are in love with this fantastic Zinfandel! The extra long finish is a fitting crescendo to delicious flavors, exciting aromatics and supple mouthfeel. Built to compliment a great meal, this wine balances an even acidity against bold dark fruit, spice and earthen elements. Pair with a spicy meal, a great steak or juicy roast. Randal Watkins has managed to create an even better wine with this follow-up to the 2006 that we featured back in 2010. Bugay’s mountain fruit and Randall’s winemaking prowess make for one fantastic Zin!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Randall Watkins

WINE EDUCATION: Masters in Enology, UC Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Winemaking for past 16 years in Sonoma, Napa and Chile; current owner/winemaker of Watkins Family Winery.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: I am committed to crafting limited production wines from the concentrated fruit of hillside vineyards. I believe that vineyard location, soil composition, climate and slope are key factors in creating wines of extraordinary quality and distinction. My goal is to produce wines of great balance with regard to ripe fruit, quality tannin, and natural acidity.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”All of my winemaking efforts go toward producing wines that are rich and intensely flavored, reflecting both their origin in the vineyard, and the balance and elegance of small lot winemaking.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1994, 1999 as head winemaker


WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Randall. We are thrilled to be showing your wine today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

RANDALL WATKINS: I am always happy to discuss our Cabernet Franc! I understand you are quite a fan.

RED: Indeed! In fact, today’s wine was my top pic, when I tasted it at a trade event. This is one fantastic wine! Tell me, was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

RANDALL: I grew up on a ranch in Sonoma County where we had horses, chickens, rabbits and 1 acre of Zinfandel and Chardonnay. My father didn’t sell the grapes, he was a home winemaker. Each vintage, all of his friends would come over to help hand-harvest the grapes and crank the hand stemmer-crusher. Then they would celebrate the harvest and their friendship with a big picnic, enjoying wine from previous vintages. From the time that I was 10 years old, I helped with the farming and the harvest of my family’s small vineyard. And when I grew older, it was my friends who came over for the harvest parties and many more great memories!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

RANDALL: For Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay, Dan Goldfield has been influential. I worked under him at Hartford and La Crema and learned about the Burgundian methods of cold soaking and open-topped fermentation to help extract color and express the fruit. He was one of the only winemakers who was producing an elegant style of Zinfandel, which is the style in which I make the Bugay Vineyards Zinfandel.

For Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varietals, I learned a lot working with Álvaro Espinoza, one of Chile’s most talented winemakers. In addition to his experience at Château Margaux, Álvaro is a well-known wine consultant and has his own highly rated label, Antiyal. He taught me the importance of organic farming, picking at perfect ripeness, and achieving a sense of place from the vineyard site.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

RANDALL: I make wine for people to enjoy and share. I want the people who try my wine to want to have another glass, and that is why balance is so important to me. Some Zinfandel wines can be overripe and raisiny, sweet but with a burn from high alcohol. I prefer to make a more elegant style which has balanced alcohol and acidity, retaining the freshness of the fruit and the liveliness that makes young Zinfandel such a fun wine to enjoy. And that is why I was awarded Sonoma County Winemaker of the Year for my Monte Rosso Vineyard Zinfandel a few years ago!

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

RANDALL: Have fun with it, feel comfortable having an opinion on what you like and don’t like. Go with your instincts. There is no point in suffering through a wine that you really don’t like just because you have read that it’s supposed to be good. Wine, like art, is subjective. Try new things, new producers, new varietals, wines from different growing areas. Trying different wines is the only way to build your sensory memory and discover your own tastes. Realize that the most important characteristic of a good wine is balance. A wine’s flavor can have many different elements: fruit, tannin, spice, oak, etc. The best wines have all these things in a complex harmony, and no one flavor overshadows the others.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

RANDALL: There is no better way to end a day than to relax and share wine, food and conversation with friends!

RED: Thank you so much for your time, Randall. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

 

2008 Kaz Winery 'Champs' Cabernet Sauvignon

Thumb4

Mission Codename: Return of The Mighty

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Kaz Winery, raid his secret library, and secure a wine that is no longer available to the general public

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Kaz Winery

Wine Subject: 2008 Champs Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Richard ‘Kaz’ Kazmier

Backgrounder:

Our Operatives know that Agent Red is absolutely bonkers about Kaz wines. They also know that Cabernet Franc is his very favorite varietal. Today’s wine is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese, the most widely planted grape in all of Italy. Sangiovese is used in everything from blended inexpensive table wines like Chianti, to the finest Super Tuscans. Italian immigrants introduced this varietal to the U.S. in the 1800’s. It is even reported that this grape was first planted near Geyserville, California, at the Segheshio Family’s “Chianti Station”. A few miles away, the Sangiovese part of today’s wine comes from a small vineyard neighboring the Kaz winery, where the other part of the wine, the Cabernet Franc, grows. This magical blending, as interpreted by the mind of Kaz, is a delicious and complex wine that is a joy to imbibe.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deepest dark garnet hues, with a slightly darker and opaque core. At the edge of the glass, a ring of light garnet rings the wine. After a hearty swirl, tall and skinny tears streak down the glass.

Smell – A port-like aroma rush up to greet you on the nose. Sweet bright cherry, young raspberry, young strawberry and toasty caramel comprise the unique, initial notes. Underneath, vanilla, sweet plum, soft cedar and red flower petals round out the fragrant aromas.

Feel – Soft and light on entry. Very high in acidity, this wine has a tart and bright appeal that makes it an easy food companion. As the wine moves across the mid-palate, it takes on a medium weightiness. After the wine leaves your mouth, a soft dryness spreads around the palate leaving behind bright fruit flavors and a hint of bright spice.

Taste – Very bright and tart, with flavors that you might not have tasted in a traditional Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine leads with tart cherry, red plum skin, black plum, young strawberry, cedar and elderberry. As the wine breathes, the cedar diminishes and bramble, soft spice and yellow raspberry emerge.

Finish – Long and bright and slightly dry, this wine begins with tart fruit and ends with cedar, spice and earthy bramble. Bright acids persist, throughout, making the mouth water at the very end.

Conclusion – Kaz’s wines are built unlike most of its California brethren. Kaz picks his grapes early, where many California winemakers look for more ripening – and therefor more sugars – before harvesting. This makes for wines that are higher in acidity, which makes them drink more like European wines. If you are looking for a deep, extracted Cab, look elsewhere. But, if you are looking for a truly unique expression of the varietal, you can’t go wrong, here. I blind-tasted the wine with a small panel of agent tasters. Not one of them was able to discern the varietal. Some through the Petite Verdot or Petite Sirah was present, and they were shocked to learn that this wine was a true 100% varietal Cabernet Sauvignon. Pair this palate-cleansing wine with something spicy or bold, like a spice rubbed steak or tangy-spicy BBQ.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER_

SUBJECT: Richard “Kaz” Kasmeier

WINE EDUCATION: Self taught with guidance from books & friends! Took some extension classes at UCDavis.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Assisted a family winery for 2 years.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Harvest grapes when they are ripe not over ripe. So the acids are high and can age and stand up to time, no or low sulfites!

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Lay it down, nah drink it!”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1994



WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Kaz. It has been far too long since I visited with you! I am so happy to have another chance to showcase one of your fantastic wines. Today, we are featuring your 2008 Champs Cabernet Sauvignon, a 100% single-vineyard wine from the Ross Family Vineyard. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

KAZ: Thanks again for the opportunity & our long relationship with a fun marketing tool to sell wine.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

KAZ: Great help from Rick Surel an armature winemaker that helped me in the starting years.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

KAZ: David Coleman of Adler Fels Winery, very creative and inventive winemaking approach.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

KAZ: I really do make wines for me & I hope that people get it. Health wines that need food. I could care less about the reviewers.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

KAZ: Last vintage of the normal crops to date. Not crazy weather shifts and aver rage rain fall and rain in the right time of the growing season. Normal size crop as well.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

KAZ: Yak or other beefy/venison type meats! Whatever meats you like but think of the other stuff as well!

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Ross Family Vineyard such a special place for Cabernet?

KAZ: Its where the fog or low clouded separate in Sonoma Valley. To the north & Russian River Valley & to the south into Carneros Valley. The soils are fertile but filled with rocks.
I try to have the grower stress the fruit as much as possible. The pumps the flavor but does result in smaller crops. This is a French clone from the Sonoma Valley of France, call Bergerac!

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

KAZ: We just did the first racking of the 2011 wines. We are also getting ready to bottle up some 2009 & 2010. Grapes growing wise we are pruning the vineyard for this year’s crop.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

KAZ: Have these wines with food, they are not the easy drinking around the pool wines!

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

KAZ: Come to the winery to taste wines from the barrel. Your experience won’t quite there, we let guests bottle, cork it, and choose a label to throw down on it.
Feel like doing a blend go for it. It’s how Sonoma Valley used to be!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Kaz Winery, in Kenwood, California, can be seen in this satellite photo.

 

2007 Fattoria Le Fonti Chianti Classico Riserva D.O.C.G.

Thumb3

Mission Codename: Return of the Lucky Horseshoe

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire an exclusive allocation of an exceptional Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Fattoria Le Fonti

Wine Subject: 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG

Winemaker: Dr Stefano Chioccioli

Backgrounder:

Chianti Classico DOCG is produced in one of the eight sub-regions in the Chianti region. This one hales from the Panzano In Chianti commune located about halfway between Florence and Sienna, a region known for having among the finest Chianti made. The DOCGrequires that these wines range from 75-100% Sangiovese grapes and often is blended with Caniolo Nero, Trebbiano, Malvasia or Cabernet Sauvignon (regular Chianti is limited to no more than 90% Sangiovese).

This Chianti Classico DOCG is mostly Sangiovese with a little Cabernet and Merlot blended for good measure, and while is still considered youthful, is drinking wonderfully right now and has exceptional cellar potential. The finest Chianti Classico, such as this one, can age gracefully for up to 20 years and are also among the funnest food wines from Italy.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and dense garnet with a clear dense heart that has glistening streaks when held to the light. The color remains garnet-red to the edges. When swirled widely spaced slow fat legs ring the glass.

Smell – Rich and redolent with notes of spiced black and red-fruit, black licorice and complex woody and oaky component blend with a hint of herbaceousness, bittersweet chocolate and a touch of of hot and exotic spice.

Feel – This full-bodied well developed wine is dry, expansive, smooth and warm in its attack and has with a touch of spice and tangy and racy acidity hitting at mid palate as the finely textured tannins and minerality that grips the tongue and lasts into the finish.

Taste – Great balance between its tangy red (cherry and ripe plum), ripe black fruits (blackberry) with hints of licorice, toasted and complex oak that doesn’t overpower but is still quite present along with a touch of hot exotic spice. Layers of vanilla, toast along with herbal and mineral components that adds depth.

Finish – Extremely long and smooth and clean with tightly woven tannins and acidity grasping the fruit, oak and spice for several minutes.

Conclusion – The 2007 Fattoria Le Fonti Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG, like the exceptional previous vintage is a fantastic wine that sets the bar high. Classic aromas and flavors with fantastic acidity and texture making this wine ideal for classic Tuscan cuisine. Youthful still, but drinking very well right now – let it breathe for a half hour or so. A fine example of one of the region’s best wines and a worthy addition to your personal collection of fine Italian classics.

Mission Report:

Agent White and the winemaker have been reported A.W.O.L., having been last seen enjoying this wine at a trattoria on the outskirts of Florence.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Fattoria Le Fonti can be seen in this satellite photo.

 

2004 Deerfield Ranch Winery Los Chamizal Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

Thumb2

Mission Codename: Secret Cavern

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Wine Spies’ Operative favorite, Deerfield Ranch Winery, and procure an exclusive Library Selection for our special Elite Operative Saturday.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Deerfield Ranch Winery

Wine Subject: 2004 Los Chamazal Cabernet Sauvignon – Sonoma Valley

Winemaker: Robert Rex

Backgrounder: Located in Kenwood, California, Deerfield Ranch Winery is a Wine Spies Operative favorite. The winery has proved elusive in recent times, but Agent Red was able to secure a limited allotment of today’s 2004 Los Chamazal Cabernet Sauvignon, a balanced delicious Cabernet Sauvignon, for our demanding Operatives.

Sonoma Valley’s first vines were planed way back in 1825 by Spanish missionaries. This unique micro-climate region receives less rain and is less influenced by the fog making this warmer AVA ideal for Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon.

This wine is made from grapes from Peter Haywood’s Los Chamasal Vineyard. The vineyard is located in a small isolated valley near the town of Sonoma.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Darkest rub red hues, through the darker core of the wine. Color is evenly concentrated, right out the the edge of the glass. Thin, widely-spaced tears run swiftly down the glass when swirled.

Smell – Softly spiced cherry candy rushes up to greet you. Then, ripe blackberry, black cherry, leather, truffle, toasted oak, bramble, subtle walnut and brown spice emerge as the wine opens.

Feel – Cool and lightweight at the tip of the tongue. The wine becomes grippy and more full-bodies as it settles onto the mid-palate. Smooth, medium tannins and a balanced acidity offer good structure while supporting the fruit.

Taste – Black cherry and blackberry give way to leather, dark cocoa, dried cranberry, dried mission fig, bramble, cracked leather, subtle tobacco and subtle anise.

Finish – Long and very flavorful, with extended fruit flavors that gradually yield to more subtle earthen flavors.

Conclusion – This single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, from our great friends at Deerfield Ranch Winery, delivers a classic, delicious, balanced experience. The wine is gorgeous, now, and while it is drinking beautifully, we’d recommend that you also stash a few bottles away for the next few years. Today, the wine shows off delicious fruit, a balanced mouthfeel and beautiful aromatics. Our tasting panel enjoyed our sample bottles with a pizza loaded with veggies, sausage and jalapenos. An unusual pairing, to be sure, but the wine was the perfect compliment. Enjoy this delicious wine on its own, or with your own complex pairing.

Mission Report:

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Sonoma Valley region can be seen in this satellite photo.

 

2007 Maloy O'Neill Vineyards Fremere Bordeaux Style Blend

 

Thumb

Mission Codename
: Triple Double

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Maloy O’Neill Vineyards in Paso Robles, uncover their best red blend, secure an amply supply for our blend-thirsty Operatives around the U.S.A.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Maloy O’Neill Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2007 Fremère

Winemakers: Shannon O’Neill

Backgrounder: Paso Robles has long been established as a wine producing region that give other California regions a run for their money. With a climate and soils that make for perfect growing conditions for grapes, it is no wonder. Winemakers in Paso are a somewhat unique breed, often declaring themselves to be the renegades of Cali wine. A meeting with Shannon O’Neill, winemaker and owner of Maloy O’Neill affirms this sentiment. A warm, excited and deeply passionate man, Shannon makes wines that reflect his personality. Join Agent Red as he visits Shannon and tastes his incredible 2007 Fremère, a delectable blend of 45% Petit Verdot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc – and returns with a cache of the wine for our eager Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Gorgeous dark ruby hues, with perfectly even coloration from core to edge. After spinning the wine, tall legs form high up on the glass wall, before streaking swiftly downward.

Smell – Lush and deeply aromatic, with a rush of blackberry, Bing cherry and raspberry that leaps from the glass. Underneath, violets, leather, cedar, soft spice and berry bramble round out the nose.

Feel – Medium-bodied, plush and gently grippy on entry. Then, as the wine passes across the mid-palate it coats the mouth with a crushed velvet quality. A soft dryness spreads from mid-palate, outward, eventually drying the lips and cheeks.

Taste – Bursting with flavor, this juicy wine leads with blackberry, dark cherry, blueberry and raspberry. These are balanced against secondary flavors of cedar, dark chocolate, black licorice, black pepper and dried black flower petals.

Finish – Ultra-long and very flavorful with dark berry fruit that seems to go on forever. As the fruit flavors taper off, a distinct and delicious anise flavor appears. As that fades, black pepper punctuates the ending.

Conclusion – Shannon O’Neill does it again! What a fantastic and delicious wine this is. We went bonkers for the 2004 Fremère, but this 2007 is so much better. Bursting with dark berry flavors, this wine shows great complexity and great balance. The aromatics had us inhaling the wine, long before our first flavor-filled sips. When our glasses were empty, we were sad. It was a good thing that we had a second bottle on hand! If you love big, extracted, concentrated wines – ones that also show balanced good behavior – then this wine will surely win you over.

Mission Report:

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Maloy O’Neil vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

yards can be seen in this satellite photo.

 

 

2007 Schug Carneros Estate Sonoma Valley Merlot

Thumb

Mission Codename: Founding Squared

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Respond to operative requests and return to Schug Carneros Estate and retrieve thier latest Sonoma Coast Merlot

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Schug Carneros Estate

Wine Subject: 2007 Sonoma Valley Merlot

Winemaker: Michael Cox

Backgrounder:

Walter Schug is, arguably, one of the founding fathers of California wine. When Walter came to the United States to make wines, he co-created, with Joseph Phelps, legendary California wines. Insignia was born, vaulting California – and Walter Schug – into the wine-making spotlight.

To true wine lovers, Merlot is one of the finest wine varietals in the world. Today, Merlot continues to sell in record numbers across the US, outpacing most other varietals. Merlot is a sincere, food-fabulous wine for serious wine drinkers. Today’s wine raises the bar for Sonoma Merlot, by delivering a delicious, complex, fruit-forward wine with plenty of complexity

The Sonoma Valley AVA is one of the oldest wine growing regions in California with the first vines being planted in the early 1800s. The AVA is located along California Route 12 and its eastern boundary are the southern end of the Mayacama mountains. The unique micro-climate with less rainfall and fog than other parts of the region along with its unique soil provides ideal growing conditions for Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon as well as Zinfandel.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Robustly ruby red in color with a deep but clear heart. The color remains consistent and dense nearly to the very edge and when swirled, clusters of widely and randomly spaced fat legs slowly creep down the side of the glass.

Smell – Ripe and tart red fruit leads the way with red and Bing cherry melding with spice and toasted oak, green herbal and earthy notes and a touch of anise. Other aromas of dark bittersweet chocolate and a hint of undergrowth adding complexity.

Feel – Finely textured and smooth tannins lead the way and warms the palate on this dry and full-bodied red. A healthy dose of acidity and textured minerality adds to the the structure of this wine.

Taste – Tart, ripe and slightly pulpy red and Bing cherry and spice glide over the palate with toasted oak following suit. The other aromas as found on the nose make their appearance on the palate especially the peppery spice, green herbs, and bittersweet chocolate.

Finish – Medium long in length with the tart spiced fruit fading first followed by the other flavors, and leaving behind hints of the textured minerality, acidity and tannins that linger and invite another sip.

Conclusion – This 2007 Schug Sonoma Valley Merlotis a very nice wine that shows that Merlot can be well structured when made with exceptional fruit and expert wine-making. Classic varietal character on the nose and palate with complex spice, toasted oak and green herbal notes adding depth. Enjoy this wine tonight with grilled steak tips, a winter stew or even roasted chicken, giving it time to open up or cellar for three to five years.

Mission Report:

Winemaker, Michael Cox, was too busy in the vineyards to spend time with us for an interview, this time round. What follows is our previous interview with Michael,in which he refers to a different wine than the fantastic wine we are showing, today.

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Michael Cox

WINE EDUCATION: Started working in Sonoma wineries out of high school. Graduated form UC Davis in 1991

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Winemaker for Schug Winery since 1995

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: 
Don’t get to fancy, let the vines and the yeast do their stuff. Just don’t mess up what mother nature intended.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: From Tao Te Ching: “The hard and stiff will be broken, the soft and supple will prevail.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1993 Napa Valley Chardonnay from DeMoor (Napa Cellars)



WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mike. We are thrilled to be showing your fantastic wine today. Thanks so much for the wine, and for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MICHAEL: Thanks Red, we are so happy that you continue to love our wines. We always enjoy your detailed reviews – and these sit-downs!

RED: The pleasure is all ours, I assure you. How long have you been making wine?

MICHAEL: My first job in a wine cellar was when I was 19. I got a summer job working at Hacienda Wine Cellars (pre Bronco – then family owned by the Cooleys).

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MICHAEL: Not sure if it is specific, but that summer of 1987, working on the bottling line, cleaning barrels, driving all over Sonoma County sampling vineyards, long wide ranging conversations on music and farming with the winemaker, Eric Laumann all combined to sell me on the idea that growing and making wine would afford me the ability to continue to live in Sonoma Valley.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MICHAEL: Hmmmm. Tough one. I spent my formative years from 1987 -1991 at Hacienda, a year at Dry Creek Vineyards, got my first‘Winemaker’ job at Napa Cellars/DeMoor, and have spent coming on 14 years here at Schug with Walter. I’d probably have to say my time at Napa Cellars. I was 25 and they gave me the keys and said ‘drive’. I learned to get things done, not to waste time or money, and how to pull together a wine from vineyard to bottle. For all the talk of art, it is also a big logistics game.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

MICHAEL: I’ll happily steal from Robert Mondavi here:‘The first glass of wine should invite the second.’ I don’t like flabby, heavy, ponderous wines. I want brightness and zip. Elegance is foremost.

RED: Walter Schug is a legend in the wine business. How has he influenced you?

MICHAEL: Walter has been, and continues to be a mentor. I am very fortunate that Walter saw in me someone with the kernel of his own winemaking style that he could nurture and develop. He is a font of knowledge that I can tap into at any time. With just about any situation he’s seen it in his own experience here, at Gallo, or as consultant, at least twice.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MICHAEL: We already talked about Walter being a mentor, but Eric Laumann, who gave me my first job was also very important. He certainly instilled a confidence in myself and the wines that make. He also is a reminder to not
take yourself too seriously, just the wine.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MICHAEL: Myself foremost. Plan D is always to just drink it all ourselves, so it better be good.

RED: Whoa… Umm, YUM! Tell me, what makes the Carneros region so special?

MICHAEL: It is a small region, so within our borders there is a lot of consistency. Appellations like Sonoma Coast and Russian River just don’t have the same climate conditions throughout the appellation. We have two main dominating features: the wind and the water. Wind is where the cool ocean air forces it’s way though the Petaluma Gap into the bay and interior valley. It cools us in summer and brings the fog. The water is the San Pablo Bay and the wetlands that surround it. In winter, it buys us a few extra degrees and gets the vines going early. Between the wind and the water, the growing season in Carneros can be up to two weeks longer than our neighbors. At the same time, we don’t have to push the growing season into late September/early October, so rain is not normally an issue. On top of that Carneros is pretty dry as far as Northern California goes, though this year it has been downright silly. 1” of rain in June? The record in the past 20 years was less than a quarter of an inch…

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

MICHAEL: Trust yourself and your palette. Don’t chase a style or someone else’s opinion. Be ready to work and get down and dirty. Don’t expect a lot other than the reward of the wine itself.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MICHAEL: Thinking about the 2011 vintage, planning meetings for the vineyard, evaluating barrels, tasting the 2010’s, planning bottlings, catching up on paperwork, walking the vineyard to keep an eye on the current crop, getting ready for a wine club event….

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

MICHAEL: Considering how much I enjoyed NASCAR, I may well be a closet redneck.

RED: Nice. What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MICHAEL: Well until recently it had been Laurenz V.’s Gruener Veltliner, either the Singing or the Charming, but I have been drinking a lot of our dry Rose of Pinot Noir of late.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

MICHAEL: Well wine is for sharing with friends so have some people you like around and start opening bottles. Schug wines always get better of the course of a meal as the layers start to unveil themselves. Don’t rush into it. Relax and enjoy.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

MICHAEL: The Holy Trinity from E. Guigal – La Turque, La Mouline, La Landonne. Odd for a Pinot maker, but I could drink those all night.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

MICHAEL: Hmmmm. How about: ‘If you couldn’t make wine, what would you do?’ And to be honest, I am not sure of the answer… I always say that my retirement plan is to move to Hawaii (Kauai – westside) and make rum, but that’s a bit close to winemaking… So perhaps a historian and author. 18th and 19th century European to be a bit more precise.

RED: Very cool. Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

MICHAEL: No problem. Thanks again for having me. I hope I covered what you wanted to know. Glad you like the wine, I hope your Operatives do, too.

And here is a recap of Agent Red’s original interview with Walter Schug:

I had the incredible great fortune to meet with one of the wine industry’s most respected and renowned wine craftsmen in California wine history.

Walter Schug, owner and winemaster at Schug Carneros Estate, was born into wine in Germany in 1936, where his father was winemaker for one of Germany’s top Pinot Noir Producers.

As a young man, Walter worked throughout Europe, honing his craft. In 1966 Julio Gallo asked Walter to oversee all grapegrowing and quality control for the company. Seven years later, after Walter’s reputation had grown, Joseph Phelps asked Walter to become Phelps’ winemaker at his new Napa Valley winery.

Walter helped to create the Insignia label and some of the finest and most sought after Bordeaux-style blends in the country. Walter crafted wines that set the high water mark for excellence in winemaking.

To this day, Walter Schug’s early influence on the industry lives on, with wineries across California and around the world emulating his winemaking style.

With Phelps, Walter Schug’s goal was to make the best Bordeaux-style blend possible. Today, Walter Schug’s philosophy remains largely unchanged. There is one big difference, however; Where a bottle of Insignia may cost you $200 or more, a Schug wine of comparable quality with cost you less than $60.

On arriving at the Schug winery last week, I am greeted by Axel Schug, Director of Marketing for the winery and the son of Walter Schug. Axel, with whom I had met previously, introduces me to his father, and then escorts me through the bowels of the winery, to a tasting room buried in a wine cave. The long table the stretches down the tunnel is surrounded on both sides by seemingly every vintage from Schug’s history.

As I am escorted to my seat, I notice several magnums of Insignia wine and I spot one bottle in a special wooden display. Walter Schug sees me looking at it and he takes it from the display and shows it to me. The bottle is from Joseph Phelps himself, and a touching tribute to Walter Schug, from Phelps, is engraved on the back.

What follows is a partial transcript of our conversation:

AGENT RED: Mr. Schug, thank you so much for making yourself available today. It is an honor to meet you!

WALTER SCHUG: Welcome, Agent Red.

AGENT RED: Let me first say that your wines blow me away. The winery is beautiful as well. I love Carneros and wines from the region. You are really a pioneer of the region. When it came time to build your own winery, how did you come to settle here?

WALTER SCHUG: When I was with Gallo, I sourced fruit from Carneros. I recognized the region as having great potential for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Given my passion for Pinot, settling in Carneros was a natural.

AGENT RED: And, when you did settle, you produced a fair amount of Chardonnay, did you not?

WALTER SCHUG: Yes, and it was excellent, too. It still is. Back then, Chardonnay subsidized my passion for Pinot Noir! It allowed me to perfect Pinot here.

AGENT RED: This Cabernet Sauvignon we are drinking [today’s 2003 Heritage CS] is incredible. How has your philosophy changed from your Insignia days?

WALTER SCHUG: Very little. The goal now, as it was with Phelps back then, is to create the very best wine that we possibly can. And, to do so without recipe orformula.

AGENT RED: Ahh. Whereas I have heard that Insignia is more formulaic in its approach to winemaking today. Instead, your proportions or even fruit sources may change a good deal – if it means making wines that are that much better. Am I correct?

WALTER SCHUG: Yes, this is true. This Cabernet isstreamlined and far more European in character. This is a wine that has elegance, delicacy, finesse – this is what I strive for in all of my wines!

AGENT RED: Again, this is a great wine and I am sure that our Operatives will love it. I also look forward to bringing them your Pinot Noir, during a future mission.

WALTER SCHUG: If they appreciate wines that are made for the best enjoyment, they will love this wine. In the end this wine is not made by going to the vineyard and knowing what you are going to get. Rather, it is the result of meticulous blending of wines made from the best fruit. Again, it is my mission to create wines that are the best expressions of place. It is my mission to make wines that are to be enjoyed.

AGENT RED: Mission accomplished, Mr. Schug, Mission accomplished!

WALTER SCHUG: Thank you, Agent Red.

We talked a great deal about Walter Schug’s history and his influence and impact on the wine industry. While I was certainly impressed by his incredible history, I must say that what impressed me the most – what seemed to matter to me the most – was what the Schug Carneros Estate winery was doing today. Today, Schug is crafting remarkably beautiful wines that are a true delight to drink and enjoy!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Schug Carneros Estate can be seen in this satellite photo.

 

2008 Ravenswood Winery Barricia Zinfandel

Thumb1

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red back to Ravenswood Winery to procure another flagship Zinfandel, from one of our favorite Zin producers in Sonoma County.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Ravenswood Winery

Wine Subject: 2008 Barricia Zinfandel

Winemaker: Joel Peterson

Backgrounder: We are very pleased to return to Ravenswood Winery, where Agent Red was able to secure an allocation of the winery’s extraordinary single vineyard Zinfandel Barricia Zinfandel, a fantastic wine that is a rare treat for lover’s of exceptional Zinfandel.

Zinfandel is related to the Italian Primitivo grape, tracing its origin to the Croatian grape Crljenak Kastelanski. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile varietals with the ability to make wines, both rich to fruity, dark to light, and dry to sweet. Sonoma ValleyOld Vine Zinfandels, which are characterized by their refinement and balance, are very popular with our Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet, with a darker and slightly opaque heart. At the edges of the wine, burgundy hues catch the light. After spinning the wine, tight clusters of skinny legs descend slowly, from high up on the glass wall.

Smell – Alluring and dark, with plenty of blackberry, black cherry and spice beckoning you to take your first sip. Inhale more deeply, though, and find additional aromas of bramble, dark chocolate, truffle and soft earthy oak.

Feel – Plush and soft on entry. Then, quite gradually, the wine gains weight and dimension on the mid-palate. As the wine takes shape, a soft dryness spreads very slowly outward, to the edges of the palate, eventually leading to a very soft dryness.

Taste – Ripe blackberry, spiced cherry, warm brown spice and bramble lead the way. As the wine opens, it reveals dark raspberry, dried cranberry, dried leather, espresso bean and soft oak.

Finish – Long, jammy and very flavorful, with long-sustaining fruit that starts sweet and transitions to slightly earthy, dry and mineral-laden.

Conclusion – This is another in a succession of fantastic single vineyard Zinfandels that Joel Peterson is famous for! Big flavors, a lush and mouth-filling feel with big fruit on the nose and on the palate, this wine delivers a very well-rounded sensory experience. The Barricia Vineyard shows of its consistent quality and unique character, improving with each successive vintage. This wine is an easy choice for anyone that loves really excellent Zinfandel. Pair with a grilled steak, rubbed with salt, pepper, garlic and olive oil for the ultimate experience.

Mission Report:

Joel Peterson, winemaker for Ravenswood, was too busy to sit down with us today (we think he’s on a covert mission at the moment), but here is a retransmission of our original interview with Joel when we reviewed his Chauvet Zinfandel.

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: JOEL PETERSON

DATE OF BIRTH: APRIL 1947

PLACE OF BIRTH: Born in Oakland, California. Fifth generation Californian.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: ZINFANDEL

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Style, history, quality, character – California wine has it all.”


WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Joel. We are thrilled to be showing your very exclusive Chauvet Zinfandel today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

JOEL: Happy to answer questions, particularly when they are about my favorite subject, wine. I am also thrilled that you are showing my wine today. Direct experience is one of the best ways that we have of developing fans for Ravenswood wines.

RED: I’m sure that our Operatives will respond well to today’s offer. Your Chauvet Zinfandel is excellent! Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JOEL: My father taught me to taste when I was fairly young. Many young men play baseball or hunt with their fathers (we did those things as well), but what was unusual was that I learned to taste wine and as a result got an olfactory training that is fairly rare. The single wine that change my vision of wine was a 1957 Chateau Fortia. I was about 20 years old and had developed incredibly interesting and complex perfume and flavors making is one of the most memorable wines that I had tasted up to that date.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

JOEL: I spent the years from 1973 until 1977 with Joseph Swan learning the nuts and bolts of winemaking. Joe was good friends with Andre Tchelistcheff and used him as a consultant, so I was able to learn in a very hands on way from the best in the business.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

JOEL: Wines should reflect the flavors of the places that they were grown. Wine should taste like fruit, not oak. Wine should be balanced, rich and complex and interesting. The best wines are the ones that develop well with age. To that end we attempt to let each vineyard express it’s optimal character by using winemaking techniques and careful attention to detail that dwells on each vineyards particular strengths. Our mantra is “no wimpy wines”, meaning that we want each wine we have to exhibit strength of character, not merely power.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JOEL: There are a whole series of wines that have influenced my winemaking style. Most of them have been European form places like Bordeaux, the Rhone and northern Italy. These memorable wines have a certain balance of fruit, density, acid and tannin that I find desirable in a wine.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

JOEL: 35 years

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JOEL: I make the wine that best expresses the vineyard, the vintage is balanced and tastes good. As a result ,it is fair to say that, Ravenswood makes wine for me, wine reviewers and wine lovers everywhere.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Sonoma Valley so special?

JOEL: The Sonoma Valley is, from a historical perspective, one of the first important grape growing regions in California. It was chosen because it has all the elements that create excellent wines. The soils, for the most part, are volcanic. In the case of Old Hill, they are called Tuscan Red Hill soils. These soils are ideal for dry farming vineyards. The other primary characteristic is that it has a maritime influence which creates a significant diurnal variation; that is warm days and cool nights. This allows for longer maturation resulting in more intense and fresher fruit flavors in the wine.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

JOEL: Learn your craft well, be patient and love what you do. It is not “just a job”.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JOEL: The usual things, but I spend a lot of time these day sharing the joy of wine and the special aspects Ravenswood with as many people as I can.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

JOEL: The 2006 Ravenswood Old Hill Ranch Zinfandel is a wonderful wine. It received 95 points from Wine and Spirits Magazine and was their highest rated Zinfandel of the year. The vineyard is one of California’s most historic and interesting vineyard plantings. It is located in Sonoma Valley and was originally planted in 1861 by William McPhearson Hill. The vines that go into the wine that we are featuring were planted in 1889. This is a unique vineyard because it is a mixed field blend planting from the old school of California viticulture. As planted, it includes zinfandel which is about 51% of the field blend, and as many as 14 other grape varieties. Many of these varieties are Rhone varieties like Syrah and Grenache and Mourvedre. This contributes a rather interesting Rhone-like character to the wine, which is rich, complex and age worthy as one might expect of a vineyard with this kind of low production and vine age. The vineyard is certified organic and is farmed with great attention and care. The winemaking is very simple, designed to bring out the best flavors of the grapes. Open top fermenters, punched down by hand, native yeast fermentations and approximately 30% new French oak contribute to the complexity, harmony, and nuance found in this wine.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JOEL: This wine would work well with anything that had its origins in the Mediterranean or Northern Italy. One of my favorite pairings with this wine is osso bucco or, alternately, a lamb daube.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

JOEL: I delivered my son, Morgan, at home.

RED: Both of my mini-agents were, as well! Tell me, what is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

JOEL: Sherman and Hookers Shebang. A one liter jug wine from California. Beyond that, I taste so much, my answer should be whatever wine is in front of me.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

JOEL: With a sense of exploration, joy and with food and company.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

JOEL: I would never make such a choice. Wine is about diversity and complexity. One wine would be boring. This is not a monotheistic endeavor.

RED: Excellent answer! What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

JOEL: Do you have the best, most interesting, most diverse, most challenging, most satisfying job in the universe? YES

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

JOEL: Every winery needs fans. Without them there is only a singular void. So, thank you to you and all those who make wine part of their daily experience.

 

2005 VC Cellars Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah

Mission Codename: The Inaugural

Thumb

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Agent White revisits VC Cellars in response to reports that winemaker, Miro Tcholakov, is covertly making wine for wineries other than Miro Cellars andTrentadue Winery.

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current WineryVC Cellars

Wine Subject: 2005 Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah

Winemaker: Miro Tcholakov

Backgrounder:

The Dry Creek Valley across the Russian River from Alexander Valley has a generally cooler and wetter climate which makes the growing season longer and more flexible than neighboring appellations. This is an area well known for producing delicious Petite Sirah as well as other bold red grapes.

Petite Sirah’s California roots dates back to when it was believed to be a close relative of the Syrah grape. Later it would be found to be genetically identical to the Durif, named for its after French discoverer François Durif who found that the varietal was a Syrah grape pollinated with Peloursin flowers. Its smaller berries with higher skin to pulp ratio leads to more intense flavors. Another benefit of the smaller berries are tighter clusters that are more resistant to mildew. Currently Petite Sirah is less popular in France and increasingly popular in the United States.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and dense purple and nearly black when viewed from the side. When viewed from the top, the color remains dark but clear, with garnet and ruby tints. Along the edges, the garnet hues really shine though and when swirled thin legs of varying speeds ring the glass evenly.

Smell – Ripe and rich blackberry, plum and black cherry along with black, blue and red fruit lead the way with black pepper and other brown spices following suit. Just underneath the fruit are notes of toasted and smoky wood and dark earth.

Feel – Velvet smooth and warm on the palate, this full-bodied dry wine has finely grained and well developed sturdy tannins. Its textured minerality and balanced acidity makes this wine not only well structured but also grasps the fruit long into the finish.

Taste – Ripe and tangy blackberry, black cherry, dark plum on the palate, initially fruit forward but quickly balanced by its other complex flavors including black pepper, toasted oak, other hot and brown spice, dark earthy minerals and bittersweet chocolate.

Finish – This wine’s finish is lasting and persistent with the rich fruit lasting long as the smooth but textured tannins and minerals dry the tongue. Notes of pepper and spice also linger and beg for another sip.

Conclusion – There is a reason that Miro Tcholakov is one of our operative’s favorite winemakers, and the2005 VC Cellars Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirahshows all the care and quality he crafts into every bottle. Ripe and fresh on the nose with great fruit, spice and other flavors. A generous, smooth but sturdy mouth-feel and great fruit and complexity on the palate. A delicious wine that you can enjoy now or cellar for up to ten years. Pair this wine with grilled game meat, hearty winter stews or with a close friends in front of a warm fire.

Mission Report:

Please enjoy Agent Red’s interview withAgent KGB below.

MIRO INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Miro Tcholakov

DATE OF BIRTH: February 4, 1966

PLACE OF BIRTH: Trojan, Bulgaria

WINE EDUCATION: Higher Institute of Agriculture, Plovdiv, Bulgaria, UC Davis, SRJC

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Dry Creek Vineyards-1990-1999 as Assistant Winemaker/Cellar Master, Trentadue Winery-1999-present-Winemaker/VP of Production, Miro Cellars-2001-present. Also consulted and continue to consult for a few other small projects domestically and abroad. Currently serving on the Board of Directors for ZAP and “PS I Love you” organizations

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: “Freedom of Expression”- meaning for Miro wines I source only vineyards that are interesting to me in regard of geology, soil types, location, grape growing styles, grape grower…etc. Not being confined to an “Estate” vineyard gives me the freedom of choice. If the vineyard does not deliver I move on. Great wines can be made without blue blooded heritage and a Chateau in the foreground.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: So far I made my mark with Petite Sirah for the Miro brand, with my other jobs I have done very well with other varieties and blends. In general I’m very fond of perhaps the only two varieties that California has claim to fame as truly “heritage” –Petite Sirah and Zinfandel. But, I am so pleased with my inaugural Pinot Noir! It turned out beautifully.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Well I’m not sure what do you consider Highlight but if you mean wine scores I have a few 90 points and above from Wine Enthusiast, Parker, Wine Spectator, Connoisseur Guide, California Grapevine, top picks in New York Times, USA Today, and hundreds of Gold medals and Best of Class and a few Sweepstakes from wine competitions that matter.

I have met and tasted my wines one on one with Michelle Rolland (without paying for it) if that is considered an event but I found that to be very interesting. I have been on the pages of few wine publications. Once Dan Burger put me on the top 20 winemakers in the country…

There is probably more that I don’t remember…

MIRO QUOTE: Just drink it-it is only wine!


AGENT RED: Greetings, Miro. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 VC Cellars Zinfandel today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MIRO TCHOLAKOV: Always a pleasure!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MIRO: I don’t think that there was any specific event-wine has always been part of our life back in Bulgaria. We made every year about 1000 liters and manage to drink most of it before the next harvest. Wine has always been part of the life circle, just like making cheese or jam or tomato sauces. We also made grappa every year. My grandfather Mariano was the initial inspiration and the first hand source of winemaking knowledge.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

MIRO: The real winemaking I learned during my first years at Dry Creek. I’m not done with the learning by any means yet. Back in Bulgaria we made the wine in the most pure way possible. We rarely used even sulfur! No additives and none of the modern gadgets-just grapes and barrels.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

MIRO: Don’t play with the wine just because you know how. Only intervene when you absolutely have to and you are sure of the outcome. Always pay attention to the details all the time. Everything you do to the wine-matters!

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MIRO: Well I don’t think there is just one person-it is more of a collective of people and styles. I do not believe that I have a particular style per say-I just try to get out of the grapes the most from every vintage-and that would be different every year.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

MIRO: Legally? Commercially –this harvest was my number 20!

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MIRO: I guess I can say that first I want to be satisfied with the wines I make and of course it will be great if a lot of people including media like them as well. Otherwise I’ll have a lot of wine to drink by myself…

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

MIRO: It is a perfect example of this varietal: blackberry, opulent blueberry, plum and a hint of chocolate.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MIRO: Short ribs and garlic.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Dry Creek Valley so special?

MIRO: Clay loam soil with a lot of rocks, warm days and cold nights.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

MIRO: You have to love the job. If you are in it just 8 to 5 don’t even think about it. If the love and passion are not there you will be just a booze maker. Also you have to be willing to sacrifice a lot of time and long days and hours away from the family.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MIRO: Bottling, rocking barrels, monitoring malolactic fermentation.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know.

MIRO: I wanted to be a MD back in Bulgaria but my girlfriend talked me out of it.

RED: Thank goodness for us fans of your wines! What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

MIRO: Rhone wines for sure. I even make one for a winemaker called Cuvee Sasha a GSM-simply delicious without all the pretense.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

MIRO: Think of them as $100 bottle of wines and you will not be disappointed. I hate the cliché but they are “affordable luxury”.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

MIRO: I would like to try again the 1927 Château D’yquem.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

MIRO: Have I been connected to KGB? The answer is –perhaps!

RED: Our intel reports were correct, then! Thank you so much for your time, Miro. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

MIRO: Thank you! Wine Spies days are always very exciting around here. Your customers are well-informed – and they know good wine.

 

2009 Domaine Christian Belleville 'Les Chauchoux' Rully AOC

Mission Codename: Certainly NOT Un-Rully

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Visit the Côte Chalonnaise commune of Rullyand retrieve a delicious Red Burgundy.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Domaine Christian Belleville

Wine Subject: 2009 ‘Les Chauchoux’ Rully AOC Red Burgundy

Backgrounder: The village commune of Rully, the northernmost appellation in the Côte Chalonnaise. It is one of the best regions for delicious Chardonnay and is also well regarded for Pinot Noir in the area and has an excellent reputation for flavorful and serious wines. The AOC was formally designated in 1939 and there are 23 Premier Crus but not one Grand Cru in the appellation.

The region is well known for its unique soil composition of white limey marl and calcic limestone, Jurassic gravel and rock and red clay. Also the vines grown in Rully are grown at an elevation of from 750 to 1100 feet above mean sea level.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Bright and glistening ruby red with sparkling ruby streaks in its crystal clear core. The bright ruby color extends to the very rim lass and when swirled, widely spaced fat legs are randomly spaced around the edge of the glass.

Smell – Fresh and ripe red fruit including red cherry and strawberry leading the way with redolent floral, spice and soft toasted oak aromas that include notes of cola, vanilla and both exotic and brown spice.

Feel – Velvet smooth and fresh on the palate with racy acidity and medium firm but supple tannins generously expanding over the palate with a soft touch of mineral texture.

Taste – Ripe, sweet and tangy red cherry, strawberry, raspberry followed by slightly more tart versions of the same fruit are followed by the layers of other complex flavors including spring flowers, brown spices, cola and toasted oak.

Finish – Clean, fresh and medium long in length with the tangy red fruit lasting as the other complex flavors linger. The supple tannins and racy acidity linger on the tongue and invite another sip.

Conclusion – The 2009 Domaine Christian Belleville ‘Les Chauchoux’ Rully AOC is a delicious and fresh Pinot that bridges the gap between French styles and the newer American fruit forward style without sacrifice. Fresh and ripe fruit on the nose and a well structured palate blend with a slightly fruit forward flavor profile making this wine great for food. Enjoy this wine tonight or cellar for the next five years to see how it evolves. A nice wine to pair with pork whether roasted, grilled or barbecued.

Mission Report:

Agent White has been reported as A.W.O.L. and last seen just outside Beaune sipping wines at a cafe and enjoying local food and culture.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the the Rully commune south of Beaune and northwest of Chalon-sur-Saone can be seen in thissatellite photo.

2002 Collier Falls Hillside Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Thumb

Mission Codename: Home & History

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a limited allocation of a library Cabernet from our new friends at Collier Falls.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Collier Falls

Wine Subject: 2002 Hillside Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Backgrounder:

The Dry Creek Valley across the Russian River from Alexander Valley has a generally cooler and wetter climate which makes the growing season longer and more flexible than neighboring appellations. This is an area best known for producing rather incredible Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Merlot as well as other red varietals.

Today’s limited release Cabernet selection is 97% Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Estate Cabernet Franc & Petit Verdot and was aged for 22 months in French oak barrels after an extended fermentation and maceration.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and beautiful garnet with a dense but clear heart. Along the edges the color shines through a deep garnet and when swirled, this wine leaves alternating fast thin legs as well as slower slightly thinker legs on the side of the glass. Some sediment settles on the cork and in the glass.

Smell – Ripe and rich blackberry, cassis and a distinct red and black cherry aroma are framed by cedar cigar box, toasted and smokey notes and soft developed spice. Soft notes of black licorice, green herbal and pepper and earth adds to the complex and fruit forward nose of this wine.

Feel – Rich, smooth and warm on the palate with finely textured and developed tannins leading the way and followed by a touch of minerality and acidity that lingers on the tongue.

Taste – Rich, ripe and generous cassis, cherry and other dark fruit linger with the cedar box and other wood aromas found on the nose. The black licorice, green herbs, spice and earth meld with notes of bittersweet chocolate.

Finish – Medium in length and clean with the fruit fading first followed by the other complex flavors. The finely textured tannins and mineral feel linger for quite a bit longer as just hints of the fruit cling on the tongue.

Conclusion – The 2002 Collier Falls Hillside Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is rich, plush and smooth wine that is drinking very well right now. If your a fan of plush Cabernet then this wine is a perfect choice at an unbelievable price. A great wine for burgers, tips or skirt steak. Enjoy this wine right now or cellar for the next couple years, but don’t wait too long, this wine is hitting its strive right now. Be sure to let this wine fully open to reveal all its aromas and flavors.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

Collier Falls wines can be tasted at the Family Wineries of Dry Creek Tasting Room and can be seen in this satellite photo.