2009 Fritz Underground Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Thumb

Mission Codename: Underground and undercover

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a limited allocation of of the latest Pinot Noir Vintage from our friends at Fritz Underground Winery.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Fritz Underground Winery

Wine Subject: 2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Brad Longton

Backgrounder: We first discovered the Fritz Underground Winery in 2008. Back then, we were lucky to get our hands on an allotment of their spectacular wines. We now enjoy a special relationship with Fritz, who allows us special access to limited quantities of their wines.

The Russian River Valley, in Sonoma County, produces Pinot Noir of remarkable distinction. The cooler maritime conditions of the region make the Russian River Valley nearly perfect for cultivating Pinot Noir. ThisAVA was officially designated in 1983, but many of the wines in the region used the designation as early as the 1970s (early in California’s wine history) with the many of the vines having been first planted in the early 1900s.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark ruby red with glistening streaks of ruby that shine through its heart when held to the light. Along the edges the color lightens only slightly, then shows ruby-pink at the very edge and when swirled, randomly spaced thin legs with fat tear-drop heads .

Smell – Layers and layers of red fruit including cherry, raspberry and even a touch of strawberry blends with sweet and brown spice, earthly undertones and hints of vanilla toast. Underneath the classic Pinot nose lies a hint of cola and a touch of smokey tobacco to add complexity.

Feel – Round and smooth, this medium-bodied dry wine has plush tannins and lively but balanced acidity to hold on to the fruit. Its earthy undertones also make an appearance with just a hint additional texture.

Taste – As indicated by the nose, this wine has lush and youthful ripe red fruit that glides over the palate while the other complex flavors of earth, spice, cola and the hints of smoke, cigar box tobacco and vanilla toast.

Finish – Very clean and medium long in length, this wine gently glides over the palate and fades elegantly leaving behind hints of strawberry and other red fruit, spice, earth and its other complex flavors.

Conclusion – The 2009 Fritz Underground Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is a lovely, plush and very easy to drink Pinot with classic aromas and flavors that are packing into a well structured but very approachable and smooth mouth feel. A great wine to pair with more delicate and even fatty foods like grilled duck or pate. Enjoy this wine now or cellar for the next three to five years.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Brad Longton

WINE EDUCATION: Self-Educated. Growing up in Perth, Australia, I became interested in wine while working at a wine retail store as a young adult. I originally started reading about winemaking so I could broaden my knowledge and increase my sales, but soon realized that I was drawn to winemaking as a career. Not soon after, I took a cellar job with Brown Brothers winery in Victoria, Australia and was quickly immersed in the production of Riesling, Chardonnay and Syrah.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: In an effort to expand my winemaking experience and exposure to other wine regions of the world, I traveled to Sonoma County in 2000 to work in the cellar at Murphy-Goode Winery and later at Clos du Bois. I returned to Australia in 2002 to take a position at Amberley Estates in Margaret River. However, in 2003, I moved back to California to take up a position at Heitz Cellars in the Napa Valley, before moving to Fritz Winery in 2005.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: My aim is to craft wines that exemplify the distinct attributes of the exceptional Terroir that they come from.



WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Brad. We are thrilled to be showing your 2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noirtoday. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

BRAD: Hi, Agent White. It is great to be working with The Wine Spies, again!

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

BRAD: Growing up in Australia, I was inspired by wines that were being produced in my “backyard.”

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

BRAD: I am influenced by a wine that is created with a minimalist approach.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

BRAD: I try to create wines that can be appreciated by a variety of consumers.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

BRAD: Honestly this Pinot is tasting great. It has beautiful balance. This Pinot is made from 3 clones: Pommard, 115 and 113. Black fruit aromas lead into subtle hints of tobacco. Flavors of Bing cherry, rhubarb and savory spices are finished with cocoa powder.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

BRAD: Dijon crusted Roasted Rack of Lamb.

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Russian River Valley so very special for Pinot N?

BRAD: Russian River Valley has become famous for Pinot Noir. It exhibits the perfect growing conditions that are needed, including the unique Gold Ridge Dust soil. The vineyard that we source the grapes from is located in Sebastopol.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

BRAD: We just finished bottling our coveted Rose along with our Estate and Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blancs.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

BRAD: Have our wines with the company of good food and great friends. Our wines can be savored now or can be aged for years to come.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

BRAD: Thank you for supporting Fritz Underground Winery! Cheers!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Fritz Underground Winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Huntington Wine Cellars Homage Merlot - Dutch Henry Reserve

Thumb123

Mission Codename: A Fitting Tribute

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Visit our friends at Huntington Wine Cellars and return with an exclusive allocation of winemaker Kerry Damskey’s Merlot tribute, Homage.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Huntington Wine Cellars

Wine Subject: 2006 Homage Merlot – Dutch Henry Reserve

Backgrounder: Merlot, one of the primary grape varietals from Bordeaux finds an exceptional home in the Napa Valley. To true wine lovers, Merlot is one of the finest wine varietals in the world. Today, Merlot continues to sell in record numbers across the US, outpacing most other varietals. Merlot is a sincere, food-fabulous wine for serious wine drinkers. Today’s wine raises the bar for Napa Merlot, by delivering a delicious, complex, fruit-forward wine with plenty of complexity.

Winemaker: Kerry Damskey

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautifully dark garnet with a dense and dark, but clear heart. Along the edges the color remains deep to the meniscus. When swirled, randomly and widely spaced fat, color-stained legs ring the glass.

Smell – Bold and redolent with abundant red and black fruit, including blackberry and raspberry jam, framed by classic Merlot bittersweet chocolate notes. Soft sweet and brown spice adds to the approachable and jammy fruit that greets your first sniff. The addition of soft toasted oak aromas and hints of savory herbs really round out the nose.

Feel – Rich and initially tangy, this dry and full-bodied wine has sturdy but finely grained tannins and vibrant acidity. A textured mineral component adds to the well structured mouthfeel of this wine.

Taste – Ripe and plump raspberry, blackberry, plum and other red and black fruit meld with rich dark and bittersweet chocolate. Sweet spice and brown spice create a homemade berry pie and jammy character that expands over the palate. Other complex flavors of toasted oak, soft earthy notes and cigar box adds complexity.

Finish – Very long with rich and ripe fruit that lasts and lasts. The fruit is framed by the other complex flavors, giving the wine a well-structured and pleasantly textured mouthfeel. As the fruit fades the texture lingers, drying the palate and inviting another sip.

Conclusion – The 2006 Huntington Wine Cellars Homage Merlot – Dutch Henry Reserve is simply a delicious wine with great varietal character, especially with the fruit and chocolate aromas and flavors. Its sturdy and textured mouthfeel will make this wine age well – and pair with food even better. Enjoy this wine tonight with grilled meat or burgers, or cellar for five plus years.

Mission Report:

Winemaker, Kerry Damskey was unavailble for an interview. Please be sure to tune back in, the next time we feature a another great wine by this prolific winemaker.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of Huntington Wine Cellarscan be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Ravenwood Winery Pickberry Sonoma County Meritage


Thumb123

Mission Codename: Pick of the Litter

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red back to Ravenswood Winery, one of our most popular wineries, to procure their flagship Red Wine, a tiny-production, single vineyard gem that is especially popular with the winery’s wine club members.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Ravenswood Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Pickberry Red Wine – Sonoma Mountain

Winemaker: Joel Peterson

Backgrounder: We are very pleased to return to Ravenswood Winery, one of our most popular wineries. This time around, Agent Red was able to secure a handful of cases of their single vineyard Pickberry Red Wine, a low-availability, limited-production wine that is the winery’s hidden gem.

The Sonoma mountain AVA was shaped by ancient volcanic activity. The mountain, which consists of obsidian, marine deposits and ash, rises high above the Sonoma Valley. Vineyards on Sonoma Mountain benefit from being above the fog line. This allows for even, slow ripening – resulting in complex Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with elegant and complex fruit flavors. Today’s wine is a single-vineyard blend of 58% Merlot and 42% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

cLook – Darkest ruby red hues, with Color concentration that is uniform, from core to slightly lighter magenta edging. After giving the wine a light swirl, tall, thin, wine-stained legs rush quickly down the inside of the glass.

Smell – Layered and lush with sweet spiced cherry, blackberry, raspberry and dark flower petals. These sit atop follow-on aromas of plum, bramble bush, cocoa and sweet cedar.

Feel – Soft and velvet-smooth at first, then grippy and softly textured as the wine settles onto the mid-palate. Tannins are mild and evenly integrated. A medium acidity and slate minerals add balance and elegance.

Taste – Darkly delicious, with big black cherry, overripe blackberry, braised plum, bramble and cocoa dust. As the wine opens up, these flavors are joined by black flower petals, subtle dark spice, darkly toasted oak, flinty minerals and a hint of black pepper.

Finish – Very long, slightly drying and mouthwatering, with delicious black and red fruit that gently yields to earthy flavors of dark flowers, slate and spice.

Conclusion – This wine gets our heartiest recommendation. It is a flavor-packed, delicious, elegant and interesting wine that our tasting panel could not stop sipping. And, when we ran out, we found ourselves dispatching a sober agent back to the winery for more ‘sample bottles’. There is simply just something about this wine that had us all wanting more. This wine also took us by surprise. Most of us equate Ravenswood Winery with exceptional Zinfandels, so when we starting receiving chatter on today’s 2007 Ravenswood Pickberry Red Wine, we were intrigued – and a little skeptical. Just one sip of the wine instantly changed our minds. Once sip was all it took to fall in love. Pair this darkly juicy wine as you would any Cab or Merlot. We’ll enjoy our next bottles with a juicy steak!

Mission Report:

Joel Peterson, gentleman winemaker for Ravenswood, was too busy to sit down with us today (Intel suggests that he’s on a covert mission at the moment), but here is a retransmission of our original interview with Joel when we reviewed his Chauvet Zinfandel.

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: JOEL PETERSON

DATE OF BIRTH: APRIL 1947

PLACE OF BIRTH: Born in Oakland, California. Fifth generation Californian.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: ZINFANDEL

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Style, history, quality, character – California wine has it all.”


WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Joel. We are thrilled to be showing your very exclusive Chauvet Zinfandel today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

JOEL: Happy to answer questions, particularly when they are about my favorite subject, wine. I am also thrilled that you are showing my wine today. Direct experience is one of the best ways that we have of developing fans for Ravenswood wines.

RED: I’m sure that our Operatives will respond well to today’s offer. Your Chauvet Zinfandel is excellent! Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JOEL: My father taught me to taste when I was fairly young. Many young men play baseball or hunt with their fathers (we did those things as well), but what was unusual was that I learned to taste wine and as a result got an olfactory training that is fairly rare. The single wine that change my vision of wine was a 1957 Chateau Fortia. I was about 20 years old and had developed incredibly interesting and complex perfume and flavors making is one of the most memorable wines that I had tasted up to that date.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

JOEL: I spent the years from 1973 until 1977 with Joseph Swan learning the nuts and bolts of winemaking. Joe was good friends with Andre Tchelistcheff and used him as a consultant, so I was able to learn in a very hands on way from the best in the business.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

JOEL: Wines should reflect the flavors of the places that they were grown. Wine should taste like fruit, not oak. Wine should be balanced, rich and complex and interesting. The best wines are the ones that develop well with age. To that end we attempt to let each vineyard express it’s optimal character by using winemaking techniques and careful attention to detail that dwells on each vineyards particular strengths. Our mantra is “no wimpy wines”, meaning that we want each wine we have to exhibit strength of character, not merely power.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JOEL: There are a whole series of wines that have influenced my winemaking style. Most of them have been European form places like Bordeaux, the Rhone and northern Italy. These memorable wines have a certain balance of fruit, density, acid and tannin that I find desirable in a wine.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

JOEL: 35 years

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JOEL: I make the wine that best expresses the vineyard, the vintage is balanced and tastes good. As a result ,it is fair to say that, Ravenswood makes wine for me, wine reviewers and wine lovers everywhere.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Sonoma Valley so special?

JOEL: The Sonoma Valley is, from a historical perspective, one of the first important grape growing regions in California. It was chosen because it has all the elements that create excellent wines. The soils, for the most part, are volcanic. In the case of Old Hill, they are called Tuscan Red Hill soils. These soils are ideal for dry farming vineyards. The other primary characteristic is that it has a maritime influence which creates a significant diurnal variation; that is warm days and cool nights. This allows for longer maturation resulting in more intense and fresher fruit flavors in the wine.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

JOEL: Learn your craft well, be patient and love what you do. It is not “just a job”.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JOEL: The usual things, but I spend a lot of time these day sharing the joy of wine and the special aspects Ravenswood with as many people as I can.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

JOEL: The 2006 Ravenswood Old Hill Ranch Zinfandel is a wonderful wine. It received 95 points from Wine and Spirits Magazine and was their highest rated Zinfandel of the year. The vineyard is one of California’s most historic and interesting vineyard plantings. It is located in Sonoma Valley and was originally planted in 1861 by William McPhearson Hill. The vines that go into the wine that we are featuring were planted in 1889. This is a unique vineyard because it is a mixed field blend planting from the old school of California viticulture. As planted, it includes zinfandel which is about 51% of the field blend, and as many as 14 other grape varieties. Many of these varieties are Rhone varieties like Syrah and Grenache and Mourvedre. This contributes a rather interesting Rhone-like character to the wine, which is rich, complex and age worthy as one might expect of a vineyard with this kind of low production and vine age. The vineyard is certified organic and is farmed with great attention and care. The winemaking is very simple, designed to bring out the best flavors of the grapes. Open top fermenters, punched down by hand, native yeast fermentations and approximately 30% new French oak contribute to the complexity, harmony, and nuance found in this wine.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JOEL: This wine would work well with anything that had its origins in the Mediterranean or Northern Italy. One of my favorite pairings with this wine is osso bucco or, alternately, a lamb daube.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

JOEL: I delivered my son, Morgan, at home.

RED: Both of my mini-agents were, as well! Tell me, what is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

JOEL: Sherman and Hookers Shebang. A one liter jug wine from California. Beyond that, I taste so much, my answer should be whatever wine is in front of me.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

JOEL: With a sense of exploration, joy and with food and company.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

JOEL: I would never make such a choice. Wine is about diversity and complexity. One wine would be boring. This is not a monotheistic endeavor.

RED: Excellent answer! What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

JOEL: Do you have the best, most interesting, most diverse, most challenging, most satisfying job in the universe? My answer, “YES!”

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

JOEL: Every winery needs fans. Without them there is only a singular void. So, thank you to you and all those who make wine part of their daily experience.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Teldeschi Vineyards in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley can be seen in this satellite photo.

2010 Modus Operandi Cellars Sauvignon Blanc

Mission Codename: Great White Dream

Thumb888

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to the Modus Operandi winery, who, earlier this year, wowed our Operatives with their impressive red blend. In time for Springtime sipping, direct Agent Red to secure and ample allotment of Modus’ Sauvignon Blanc for our thirsty Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Modus Operandi

Wine Subject: 2010 Sauvignon Blanc

Winemaker: Jason Moore

Backgrounder: Sauvignon Blanc originally hails from the Loire Valley in France, but has found new homes in other parts of France (Bordeaux, where it is blended with Sauternes), New Zealand (especially the Marlborough region) and, of course, California. Sauvignon Blanc is generally dry and crisp with flavors of apples, pears and tropical fruit and it tends to have bright acidity that lends itself well to pairing with spicy foods.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Lightest yellow golden hues, from core to edge. When spun in the glass, the wine looks springy. It settles quickly, leaving behind tall columns of skinny legs start high on the glass.

Smell – Fragrant and bright, with stunning aromas of green apple, green mango, pink grapefruit, green lemongrass and crème brûlée. As the wine warms, just a little, it reveals creamy lemon curd, lime and the most subtle hint of hay.

Feel – Very soft and creamy on entry. Then, as the wine passes across the mid-palate, it gains some weight and introduces a hint of dryness that spreads from the edged of the palate, inward.

Taste – Bright and initially floral, the wine gradually introduces its fruit, beginning with yellow grapefruit, pineapple, key lime and green mango. Allow the wine to warm, just a little, and be rewarded with additional flavors of hawthorn, white peach, honey and thesubtlest hint of toasty spiced oak.

Finish – Long and very flavorful, leading with white flowers that slowly yield to delicious fruit. When the wine warms, slightly, flavors become more complex and least even longer.

Conclusion  Go, Jason Moore! This Sauvignon Blanc is among the very best that we have ever tasted. Our tasting panel was unanimous in this bold declaration. We’ve tasted some exceptional Napa Valley Sauv Blanc, in the past, but this is our first from Rutherford. Best known for producing stunning Cabernet Sauvignon, today’s Sauvignon Blanc makes us sit up and take notice. We’ll be sure to scout the are for others. It maybe Jason Moore’s skills, that come into play here, however. Regardless, today’s wine is what you should be focusing on! This 2010 Modus Operandi Sauvignon Blanc is a delicious, fragrant, voluptuous, sexy and refreshing wine that belongs on your table. Just be sure to save a few bottles for Spring and Summer!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Jason Moore

WINE EDUCATION: Self-taught thru books, an collection of mentors, and hands on winemaking.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Started making my own tiny production of wine in 2004 with 200 cases of Modus Cabernet Sauvignon; Production Manager of Silenus Vintners, the custom crush facility where I make a lot of wine from 2006 to 2008; Currently I’m the Winemaker for 6 small brands: Modus Operandi, Gentleman Farmer (formerly Poem Cellars), Cielo Malibu Estate Wineyards, Coleman Nicole, RHEO Cellars, and Ashton Lockett Wines.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Winemaking begins in the mind.
Here the winemaker decides what style of wine is desired and then works backwards, mapping out a plan of action which leads directly to the vineyard. This philosophy is based on something that all winemakers and wine lovers know… great wine makes itself and is only possible when made from great fruit. The process of making wine is a natural process thus, my job is to simply parent the wine through its growth, giving it what it needs to stay healthy. With that said, I believe that just as terroir can speak through the wine, the passion of the winemaker can undoubtedly sing through the wine

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”For some, determining ones true purpose in life is accomplished thru following the path of least resistance, and thus relinquishing to passion.”

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 2004 Modus Operandi Cabernet Sauvignon… sometime in 2006



WINEMAKER INTERVIEW 

AGENT RED: Greetings, Jason. We are thrilled to be showing your 2010 Rutherford Sauvignon Blanctoday. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

JASON MOORE: It’s great to be back with my favorite Secret Agents!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

JASON: Working in restaurants in Dallas when I was a teenager. I had a manager that saw that I had an interest. He took me under his wing, taught me a lot about wine, and exposed me to wines that I would of otherwise never had access to at such a young age.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

JASON: Bob Foley, Thomas Rivers Brown, Manfred Krankel, Andy Erikson,

RED: Who do you make wine for?

JASON: People who celebrate wine. I love these people… people who really love wine. I hate seeing a person stick their nose in a glass and the first thing they look for are flaws… find the beauty.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

JASON: WINEMAKER: The Modus Operandi Sauvignon Blanc is quite different than most SB’s. I’ve been told by several people that it has turned them back on to Sauvignon Blanc where they previously didn’t like the grape. This particular wine is organically grown in Rutherford and I’ve been making the wine from the same seven rows in this vineyard since 2006.

The production of this wine is a bit different too. Most wineries will pick their fruit, press it, and ferment it with a single yeast for the lot. This wine is fermented in as small as single barrel batches distinguished by only the different yeast used to ferment it. Half of each vintage is co-fermented by two specific yeast strains which work off of each other to create a higher amount of thiol which are responsible for producing more tropical and aromatic wine. Ultimately, all of the micro lots are blended creating a more layered and complex wine.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

JASON: The wine is fairly rich and creamy due to the weekly stirring of the barrels so I’d go with richer seafood or perhaps coconut / curry based Thai dishes.

RED: The grapes for today’s wine comes from the Rutherford AVA, in the Napa Valley. In your opinion, what makes these regions so special?

JASON: The heavy soils of this vineyard are better for SB than cabernet. I know this, because I’ve made cab from this vineyard – and the SB is way better suited to this block!

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

JASON: BOTRYTIS!

RED: Ohh. Sorry to hear it. The next time we meet, you’ll have to tell us how it has effected this year’s harvest! How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

JASON: Most wines these days are made in a manner conducive to being enjoyed earlier. Pop them bottles!

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

JASON: The 2008 vintage of this same wine was poured at a historic White House State Dinner that honored the Prime Minister of India.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Silenus Vintners, where today’s wine is on continuous offer, can be seen in this satellite photo.

2007 Cascina Bruciata Barolo 'Cannubi Muscatel' DOCG


Mission Codename: Obi Wan Cannubi

Thumb999

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Return to Cascina Bruciata and secure the next vintage of their exceptional and exclusive Barolo ‘Cannubi Muscatel’ DOCG for our operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Cascina Bruciata

Wine Subject: 2007 Barolo ‘Cannubi Muscatel’ DOCG

Winemaker: Francesco Baravalle

Backgrounder:

The greatest of all Italian wines are arguably made with from the Nebbiolo grape. The wines of the BaroloDOCG are made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes. Nebbiolo, native to the Piedmont in north-west Italy and cultivated in the region since the 13th century is generally a bolder than its little sister Barbaresco. The late ripening Nebbiolo is known to be highly influenced by various soil and vineyard conditions, with the wines from the best vineyard sites having sublime character.

Most people don’t give Barolo enough time and drink them young, but those patient enough to wait at least 7 – 8 years, and often as much as 20 plus years are handsomely rewarded with a wine that is the ultimate expression of the grape. The most prized bottlings of Barolo are those from an exceptional single vineyardsuch as today’s from the Cannubi Muscatel Cru.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dense and deep ruby red with ruby and orange streaks that shine through its clear core and along the edges when held to the light. When swirled, slow thin and legs hang before descending to the wine below.

Smell – Bold and rich dark cherry, tart blackberry, plum and other dark berries blends with toasted wood and dusty earthy notes . Black licorice, spice, a touch of green herbs and hints of dried floral violets and zesty tar adds complexity to the nose.

Feel – This dry and full-bodied wine is smooth and finely textured; with smooth but sturdy tannins are expansive. Vibrant acidity and smoothly-etched minerality provides a framework for the elegant flavors than last long into the finish.

Taste – Red and black cherry flavors blend with blackberry and plum and are layered with soft earthy and powder fine dusty minerality. Sweet tobacco, dried green herbs and flowers, slightly sweet black licorice, hints of exotic spice box and subtle tar adds depth.

Finish – Very long, smooth and rich with this wines finely textured minerality, lively acid and sturdy tannins gripping onto the palate as the dark fruit, spice and minerality other complex flavors elegantly linger.

Conclusion – The 2007 Cascina Bruciata Barolo ‘Cannubi Muscatel’ DOCG is a wine of great finesse and distinction, Classic dark cherry and other classic Piedmont complexity on the nose and palate all framed by a balanced and well structured mouthfeel. Pair this wine with classic Piedmontese cuisine or a juicy grilled steak tonight or cellar for the next ten years.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Francesco Baravalle

WINE EDUCATION: Winemaking and Viticulture degree from University of Turin (2001) Sommelier degree (2008)

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Use the technologies in the cellar to preserve the quality of the grapes and enhance the expression of the territory.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: Wine is devotion to land and people’s culture


Below is a transcript of our interview with winemaker Francesco Baravalle when we featured the previous vintage of this delicious wine.

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Francesco, We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Barolo ‘Cannubi Muscatel’DOCG. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

FRANCESCO: Greetings to you Agent White! It is a great pleasure for me to talk to you about our wines.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

FRANCESCO: I maybe didn’t realize it at the time, but I believe that it was when I was a kid, watching my grandfather bring home grapes and be so excited to crush them and to start the fermentation. Furthermore his pride when putting his own bottle on the table to share with friends saying: “Guys, I made this, enjoy it!”

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

FRANCESCO: I think more than a specific wine or winemaker, undoubtedly, Burgundy is a very inspiriting territory where both the people and the authenticity of the wine have influenced me.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

FRANCESCO: I make wine primarily for consumers who want to know more about our people and our land through our wines.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

FRANCESCO: This wine comes from a little vineyard (2000 square meters) in one of the most prestigious and probably the first vineyard classified in the Barolo area, the Cannubi. The oldest bottle from the Langhe region we have a record of is a Cannubi 1752, way before the Barolo DOCG appellation was established in 1980.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

FRANCESCO: I really like to pair our Barolo with braised beef cooked for a long time with a wine based sauce. Here in the Piedmont we have a local cattle breed that have the perfect meat to cook this kind of dish.

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Barolo & Piedmont so special?

FRANCESCO: The great diversity of terroirs that are capable of making authentic wines with different personalities. Furthermore the Nebbiolo grown in Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero produces unique wines.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

FRANCESCO: Working in a very small winery allows me to have a very seasonable schedule. Specifically in this period of the year I dedicate a lot of time to promoting and communicating our wines to journalist tastings or new vintage presentations.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

FRANCESCO: Discovering a wine it is not only a matter of magazine reviews or critic’s scores, it is a way to learn about people and culture that live together with the vines that will give birth to great wines.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

WINEMAKER: Yes, I really would like to share some time with them at the Cascina Bruciata winery. Come to visit us to learn about our lifestyle, culture and taste. Our cellar doors are always open to visitors!

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

FRANCESCO: Thank you and to The Wine Spies for your attention to our land and wines! Arrivederci!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Cascina Bruciata and its vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

2006 Twilight Cellars Cumulus Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Mission Codename: Exceptional Vertical Development
Thumb111

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a limited allocation of Twilight Cellars’ Cumulus Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon for ourElite Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Twilight Cellars

Wine Subject: 2006 Cumulus Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Richard Gumerman

Backgrounder:

Paso Robles, in California’s Southern Central Coast region (San Luis Obisbo County) is one of California’s oldest and also newest wine growing regions. The first vines were planted in the late 1700s by the Spanish missionaries.

Paso’s unique climate, perhaps influences its vine more than any other area in California. The hot, dry weather that is only minimally effected by coastal fog and wine results in grapes that are more concentrated in flavor and intensity. This climate makes Paso uniquely suited to grow the big red varietals including Zinfandel, Syrah and as in this wine,a Cabernet Sauvignon that has spent 40 months in oak maturing.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deepest ruby red with dark purple tints that extend to the very edge of the glass. Ruby streaks glisten though its clear core when held to the light and when swirled, fast and randomly spaced medium-thick legs ring the glass.

Smell – Prominent notes of black cherry mingle with hot spice and savory cigar-box and meaty undertones. Distinct cocoa, toasted vanilla and soft herbal notes immediately follow the rich, ripe and fruit-forward cherry aromas.

Feel – Smooth and generous on the initial attack then the firm and textured tannins and a touch of hot spice hits at mid-palate drying your tongue as this full-bodied wine expands over the palate. This wine’s bright acidity lends itself to a variety of food pairings.

Taste – Classic Paso fruit-forward flavors lead off with the dark blackand red cherry found on the nose and framed by both a touch of hot spice and chocolate cocoa powder (including a mouth drying textural quality). Savory notes, a touch of cigar-box and soft toasted oak adds depth.

Finish – Long and lingering, this wine’s rich fruit and spice fades first leaving behind the flavors of cherry liquor that blends with the other supporting flavors found on the palate as the medium firm tannins and vibrant acidity linger on.

Conclusion – The 2006 Cumulus Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is an excellent example of a classic Paso Robles Cab. Big ripe and fruit forward with rich aromas and flavors that are framed by a sturdy and bold mouthfeel. A great wine to pair with a big steak as recommended by winemakr Richard Gummerman. Enjoy this wine tonight or cellar for the next five to seven years.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Richard Gumerman

WINE EDUCATION: 5 years apprenticing at Wollersheim Winery during crush. Then 6 years here in Paso Robles making wine for 14 different clients and crushing up to 520 tons of grapes per year.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF:Grew up in Milwaukee, WI and moved to Newport Beach, CA in 1986. Education at University of Notre Dame in Business Finance and Economics. Worked at many financial institutions including General Electric and Bank of America doing Information Technology jobs. Dabbled in growing wine grapes for over 10 years, especially in Prairie du Sac, WI where I farmed Marechal Foch.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Pick the grapes when they are ripe and make the smoothest full bodied wine you can get and age it a long time in oak barrels.

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 02/10/2006



WINEMAKER INTERVIEW 

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Richard. We are thrilled to be showing your 2006 Cumulus Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

RICHARD GUMERMAN: Thanks, Agent White, We are happy to go on another mission with your operatives!

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

RICHARD: My father was a wine collector all through my childhood. He would teach me about the differences between the different types of wine and where they were from around the world. Then on my honeymoon 22 years ago, we spent two days in Napa Valley and bought 9 cases of wine. We found out a couple of years later that the lowest rated wine that we purchased was 98 out of 100 points on Wine Spectator. So we discovered we knew what the good stuff was.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

RICHARD: Philippe Coquard of Wollersheim Winery in Prairie du Sac, WI. Philippe and I became good friends when we moved back to Wisconsin from California in 1996. He grew up in Beaujolais and told me to stick to the old world ways in making your wines. You can never go wrong making a wine that has already proven itself.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

RICHARD: I make wine mainly for the foodie’s that love to have wine with food. Along the way I also make wine for many other people, both under contract and for the mass market. But my main love is the people that have wine with a meal.

WHITE: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

RICHARD: Cumulus is one of our favorite wines. It is smooth and rich in your mouth. It just tastes great. We always age our Reserve Wines for at least 36 months in the barrel before we bottle it. This one was in the barrel for 40 months. This allows the wine to age better than in the bottle, thus being ready to drink earlier.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

RICHARD: I like it with a thick, juicy Filet Mignon and my wife Aurora always saves a little for a dark chocolate dessert. We have food pairings listed right on each bottle of our wine. So if you don’t know what goes with a particular wine, just read our back label and there it is. Another new thing we just started, was putting dates on the bottle when we feel the wine will be at its best to drink. This way, you know how long the bottle can sit around before you drink it. Cumulus shouldn’t have that problem though. You’ll probably enjoy it right away.

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Paso Robles region so special?

RICHARD: Paso Robles is blessed with a Mediterranean type climate with the added bonus of being cooled at night by the Pacific Ocean. During the growing season the average daily temperature swing is 50 degrees a day. It gets to 100F during the day and cools back down to 50F by morning. Allowing the vines to grow during the day and rest during the night, extending the growing season into October or November for Cabernet.

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

RICHARD: It is pruning time. This is where we cut all of last year’s growth off the vines and to save the best buds for growing this year’s crop. It has been a dry, warm winter thus far. Who knows what we will have for this year.

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

RICHARD: Because we age our reds at least 22 months in oak before bottling, you can expect our wines to be smoother and softer from the beginning. Our wine is meant to be drank with food so you can count on our wines to be a good pairing at any dinner you make or attend at a friend’s house.

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

RICHARD: Our winery will be celebrating its 50 anniversary in late November. It started as HMRWinery back in 1961 as a 1200 acre ranch. They planted Pinot and Cabernet between rock outcroppings of limestone and by 1976 were making award winning wines that received accolades in Europe. A special competition was held in 1979 like the one in 1976 where Stags Leap won and HMR’s 1976 Pinot beat Romaneé-Conte. Then we bought the property in 2005 and have concentrated on Rhône varietals and Cabernet.

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

RICHARD: On one final note, I wanted to let your Operatives know that we were forced to change our name earlier this year from Thunderbolt. We chose Twilight Cellars which was the name of our Pinot Noir. I know some people think we did it because of the movies, but we had the name before the movies came out.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Twilight Cellars can be seen in thissatellite photo.

2010 Windsor Oaks Vineyards Russian River Valley Unoaked Chardonnay

Thumb

Mission Codename: Mighty Whitey

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Send Agent Red back to the fabled Windsor Oaks Vineyards, a winery that also grows grapes for some of the most sought-after wines in California. Secure their own Unoaked Russian River Chardonnay, a perfectly balanced gem, for our thirsty Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Windsor Oaks Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay – Russian River Valley

Winemaker: Julie Lumgair

Backgrounder:

Windsor Oaks Vineyards grow grapes that go on to become fine wines from a handful prestigious producers. They also produce a small handful of distinctive wines under their own label. These wines represent the best of the best, often at a fraction of the price of those other wines.

The Russian River Valley, in Sonoma County, produces Chardonnay (as well as Pinot Noir and Old Vine Zinfandel) of remarkable distinction. The cooler maritime conditions of the region make the RRV ideal for growing Burgundian varietals. This AVA was officially designated in 1983, but many of the wines in the region used the designation as early as the 1970s (early in California’s wine history) with the many of the vines having been first planted in the early 1900s.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Golden straw-yellow with glinting edges when swirled. When the wine settles, tal columns of fat legs start high on the glass, and then run very slowly downward.

Smell – Bold and bright, with fruit that leaps from the glass. Leading with fresh citrus, pineapple and white peach, the wine also reveals tart green apple, subtle white spice and dried white flower petals.

Feel – Smooth, soft and very round, on entry. Then, this medium bodied white reveals a lively acidity and excellent tannin, with soft minerals that sustain the lovely flavors long into the finish.

Taste – Fresh white pear, peach, citrus, green apple and soft spice weave their way around follow-on flavors of Meyer lemon, guava, acacia flowers and Asian pear.

Finish – Long and clean, with crisp, bright and refreshing fruit that lingers for a very long time.

Conclusion – The 2010 Windsor Oaks Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay – Russian River Valley is a delicious Chardonnay with brilliant great flavors and a soft and sexy mouthfeel. With great structure and bright acids, this wine is wonderfully balanced. Allow the wine to warm, a little, and be rewarded with even more softness – and flavor. Springtime is just around the corner, but we’re also drinking this fantastic wine, now. Enjoy with your favorite seafood dish, creamy pasta or cheese and fruit plate.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Julie Hagler Lumgair

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Karma…I never, never cut corners. The only way to know you’ve done your job as a winemaker is to pour some and watch folks’ smiles…then recall all those long days and know it was just right.
So what is “not cutting corners?” Besides just working hard to follow all four seasons, I passionately believe in following the fruit and expressing in the glass a tricky hierarchy: the vintage, then the vineyard, then show some moves and show the vineyard blocks and clones and my own style! True Estate winemaking is harder than blended approaches (nowhere to hide when Mother Nature throws your geographical a curve ball) but extremely rewarding and absolutely beautiful if you keep an open mind and follow the clues Mother Nature provides. It is never a formula, but a living study. This is why it is a pleasure and privilege to make anywhere from 1 to 7 different Pinots or 4 Chardonnays, etc. in a given vintage. Just follow, study, then express!
I guess I’m every bit at home in the vineyard as on the crushpad or bottling day. It’s all about the ART of growing fine wine for our whole team in the field and the winery, then not taking a strong start for granted. Perfect picking is key, but just a starting line for the race ahead. I hand-craft wines literally barrel by barrel, from individual vineyard blocks, with a winery team that truly grew up in the vineyards and still work in the vines every week. It is the epitome of careful winemaking, as our whole team actually planted those vines and tends the fruit year round. We do not yet 3-tier distribute our estate wines, but choose instead to sell direct from the cellar door, and now with Wine Spies!
My muse is my husband, estate and vineyard manager Douglas Lumgair, who has worked with our general partner, Bob Stein, and vineyard foreman, Lupe Ruiz, for 20+ years. Douglas and Lupe pulled out 175 acres of old vines starting in the 1990’s and have reworked and replanted the perfect combinations of varietal clones and rootstocks to make Windsor Oaks a crown jewel of Sonoma County. Winemaker’s heaven! Our vineyard team is a family and true “old Sonoma style” village of 20 people that believe that “good enough” isn’t even close – our goal over all these years has been to deliver the absolute best wine grapes to our own small and focused artisan brand that uses ~9% of the vineyard’s fruit, and to dazzle the 25+ boutique and artisan wineries that use our grapes in their beautiful wines. In fact, I make wine for some of our other winery friends…but our lips are sealed! We are deeply honored to grow for some of the finest artisan winemakers in the business. It really is a big neighborly approach….

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”Share the love and follow the Golden Rule! We are fortunate to have such amazing friends and family – thank you!”

WINEMAKER’S EDUCATION: Short answer is lots of hard work on a path from Rx to OTC to food to culinary to viticulture to wine, with a lot of stops on the way for added education thanks to the great folks at a number of universities, many industry resources, midnight oil and mentors, including notable farming and chef friends plus great winemaker mentors.
Born as a 5th generation farmer, Julie started her journey of sensory studies and made her mark early in oral care pharmaceutical and OTC oral care products at Procter & Gamble, through a series of global merger team assignments working on how to overcome serious problems of the palate, upper gastrointestinal tract and oral care challenges for many people including a focus on improving quality of life for immunocompromised patients with cancer, HIV-AIDS and oral surgery complications. Success in food, culinary and wine followed. To this day, she believes it was studying the details of how people lost touch with their senses and palates, and how they could recover some of the lost territory, that showed a different path to creating wines to hit a broad array of magical places for so many people. Cheers!



WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT WHITE: Greetings, Julie. We are thrilled to be showing your Estate 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WINEMAKER: Thanks, Agent White! This is an honor to raise a glass with all of you.

WHITE: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

WINEMAKER: Sometimes the road to the cellar door goes around the bend, and back! I grew up in a dry county in Tennessee and learned about fine wine through my parents encouraging travel abroad in Europe which really celebrates its local traditions of farming and fermenting the best of a very specific region. That was eye-opening to see local foods, cheeses, beers and wines with the people behind each enjoying them seamlessly with family and friends, and sharing them with us, too! I felt like an insider…it was transformative. I then had a wonderful college mentor who was a fine wine collector and shared knowledge and tasting with a generous heart. Oops, I just told you all the stuff before I even turned 21… Well, now I’m, ummm, not 21, and my love of wine has found a prefect home in Sonoma County. This is my modern paradise with the same magical combination of local food, wine, hospitality, friends and family from all those years ago in Europe.

WHITE: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

WINEMAKER: I think the ultimate winemaker an style maker is Mother Nature. Growing up a farmer, you realize she really makes everything, and we wait and make the most of the gifts. On a more local field, for quality and varietal expertise, I’m thankful every day for over seven vintages of advice, support and input from all of the great winemakers that Windsor Oaks has grown grapes for over the years. We do a LOT of grower tastings each vintage, so sometimes the math adds up to my own experiments and key lots plus over 12 more looks at a given varietal. It’s like seeing multiple harvests in just a year. Since my husband, Douglas, and I are both professional wine judges as well, I give lots respect to that view as well. Seeing your own region, then seeing so much from around the world is truly humbling and deeply educational. Tastes great, too.

WHITE: Who do you make wine for?

WINEMAKER: Folks that appreciate crafted wine made with artisan quality and heart.
Plus, folks that actually want to drink wine that over-delivers the price point, and if they call the winery, they could talk to the winemaker. Back to that “connection” point.

WHITE: Please tell me a about the wine we are featuring today.

WINEMAKER: You’re showcasing my Windsor Oaks Estate 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay. The vineyards I work with cover a series of cool microclimate vineyard blocks, each planted with unique historic vine cuttings called “clones.” Each is chosen to show the optimal mix of site, vine and desired winemaking style. Each vintage I make both Unoaked Chardonnays and Reserve styles (barrel aged, partial malolactic fermentation)– something for every food pairing and palate!
Our Unoaked Chardonnay truly shows the bold intensity of flavors from the unusually cold 2010 vintage, and its vineyard site, Block 8, the Robert Young clone 17, under the Russian River Valley fogline in alluvial cobble soils that concentrate the intensity of the fruit’s flavors. I’m passionate that wines made in steel do not have to taste thin or shallow. They should instead reflect crisp and distinctly clean mineral and fruit notes, and hold up to a high standard of complex and sophisticated winemaking. WHITE: A few sips into this Unoaked Chardonnay shows me a mouthfeel and weight I can’t believe comes from a Chardonnay with no barrel aged concentration or fermentation. What’s going on? WINEMAKER: That’s something we hear all the time from sommeliers – nice catch! Some of the magic is a secret of knowing when to do what, but the highlights are that I made Windsor Oaks’ Estate 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay “sur-lie” (stirring for months on its natural lees) with multiple yeasts in separate picking date and fermentation lots to build layers of lovely and complex flavors, plus rich mouthfeel. Each lot was fermented in small stainless steel barrels (remember, no oak!) at low temperatures with no malolactic fermentation. This layering, plus the natural grape acids highly concentrate the wine’s bright, lush flavors of fragrant meyer lemon, ripe citrus, stone fruits, pineapple and white peach finishing with a long, clean balance of fruit and minerals. The hours and hours of blending all through the journey of the wine down to the last <1% are the touches of detail and beauty that shine in the glass. Only 190 cases produced.
p.s. I couldn’t resist playing with the Chardonnay in 2010, so this wine has a sister from vineyard Block 10, our 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay – Muscat 809 Clone – Russian River Valley. Only 65 cases produced.

WHITE: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

WINEMAKER: Our Unoaked Chardonnay’s balanced acidity and concentrated flavors are perfect with foods like shrimp, salsas, spiced or seasoned seafood, spicy Thai, Mexican or Indian that you might usually enjoy with crisp wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio or even cold beer….and, it is so perfect for a refreshing glass all by itself. Jump in!

WHITE: In your opinion, what makes the Russian River Valley so special?

WINEMAKER: Location , location, location! Welcome to Rodeo Drive for Chardonnay and Pinot noir in particular. Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley, is just fifty-five short miles north of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge and 30 miles from the Pacific Ocean by way of the Russian River. Winegrowing here is built on a long tradition that produces some of the finest wines in the world. Windsor Oaks Estate vineyards are right in the direct line of influence for the Russian River gap that funnels the Pacific Ocean’s maritime influences through the western mountain range.
All that fancy grape grower and winemaking stuff adds up to lovely grapes and wine with highly concentrated flavors, yet very balanced acid levels and long, cool time on the vine to develop complexity.
Of course, it takes the full talent of the vineyard team and winemaker to unlock the magic – it’s nature and nurture. Just like mining for diamonds, then polishing them to brilliance. I just cut and polish what Mother Nature sends us each year!

WHITE: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

WINEMAKER: Blending for bottling nine new wines in April, walking the vineyards with our winemaker friends and Douglas, and getting ready for our big “Barrel Weekends” event for 6 remarkable days of tasting wines directly from barrels as “futures” in early March. We have a vibrant Futures program, well worth a look since I sure don’t put anything less than best in that 6 day beauty contest covering 150 wineries in the North of Sonoma County. We shine!

WHITE: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

WINEMAKER: Wine is one of life’s simple luxuries and it brings us together. Drink what inspires you and enjoy the moment. Cheers!

WHITE: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

WINEMAKER: I’ve been making an Unoaked style of no-ML Chardonnay since the 2007 vintage, and am thrilled to see how well these clean, complex and fruit-focused wines are doing for us and for the market as a whole. For both Chardonnay lovers, and folks that think they are not “into Chardonnay,” I invite you to expand your horizon and see why this is one of the fastest growing trends in winemaking. Well, we’re small, but I can honestly say we got to the party early, and it’s a great party to try!

WHITE: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Windsor Oaks Vineyards and Winery in the Chalk Hill AVA can be seen in this satellite photo.

2010 Purecru Wines Carneros Pinot Noir

Mission Codename: Purity of Spirit

Thumbfuck

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Mitch Cosentino, long-time friend of The Wine Spies, and procure a quantity of his 2010 Pinot Noir – the first Pinot release from Mitch since we’ve known him.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: pureCru by M. Cosentino

Wine Subject: 2010 pureCru Carneros Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Mitch Cosentino

Winery Backgrounder: We first met Mitch Cosentino in early 2007, and we were smitten with his wines almost instantly. Mitch enjoys the distinction of being our top-selling winemaker of all time. Mitch’s wines are varied, distinctive, always delicious – and always a Wine Spies Operative favorite.

Varietal Backgrounder: Some of our favorite California Pinot Noir comes from the Carneros viticultural area, a winegrowing region which straddles the Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley. The cool Carneros region provides ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir. Pinot thriveshere. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report to learn more about this fantastic Pinot Noir.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Darkest ruby hues, with evenly concentrated coloration, from core to edge. After a hearty swirl, tall, skinny, wine-colored tears start high up on the glass before moving very slowly downward.

Smell – Lush and very fragrant, with spiced cherry and raspberry that leap from the glass. Just beneath the surface, earthy black tea leaf, flint, black cherry, strawberry and subtle spice round out the nose.

Feel – Soft and plush at first. Then, after a moment, it takes on a softly grippy feeling – especially at the edges of the palate. Plush tannins are bolstered by a medium-bright acidity.

Taste – Sweet and softly spicy red cherry is the initial note, here. Then, the wine seems to unwind additional flavors onto the palate, including black cherry, young strawberry, black pepper, red plum skin, flint, dried tea leaf and flint.

Finish – Very long, with red fruit that tails off slowly, to reveal a soft dryness with flint, dried black tea leaf and a long-persistent black pepper.

Conclusion – If I only had two words to describe this wine, I’d call it compelling and delicious. This wine is a bold, big, spiced and juicy delight that delivers a very intriguing drinking experience. Big and red, with spiced cherry, this wine fills the mouth with a juiciness that is supported by the complexity of its earthen characteristics and big black pepper. This black pepper exists, especially, in the finish. We love Mitch’s wines, we love Carneros Pinot Noir and we revel in our first presentation that combines the two. Drinking beautifully now, this wine will continue to progress for the next several years.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Mitch Cosentino

WINE EDUCATION: Self Taught – and 33 years of practical experience

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Winemaker for Cosentino Winery from 1980 to 2010, 
Consultant to various wineries and growers from 1989 to present. 
Founder-Winemaker of pureCru Winery and Wines from 2009 to present

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Flavor and balance

FIRST COMMERCIAL WINE RELEASE: 1980 Merlot and a 1980 Cabernet Sauvignon and a Blanc de Noir Sparkling wine all released in 1982 under the brand of Crystal Valley Cellars/Cosentino Wine Company.



WINEMAKER INTERVIEW 

AGENT RED: Greetings, Mitch. We are thrilled to be showing your 2010 Carneros Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

MITCH COSENTINO: Always a pleasure, Agent Red!

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

MITCH: No, primarily “divine misguidance” telling me that I needed to learn about and pay attention to anything about wine.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

MITCH: Several notable winemakers like Myron Nightingale and Ed Sbragia of the old Beringer days, John Parducci, John Daniels thru his old Inglenook Cabernets and others from the 60’s, and 70’s.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

MITCH: I won’t make a wine that I wouldn’t enjoy myself, but otherwise the wines are made for the pleasure of all with food primarily.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today.

MITCH: This 2010 Pinot Noir is the first commercial wine made from this exciting new vineyard that is less than 5 acres. I have been watching it grow up prior to producing a crop. Giovanni’s Vineyard is owned by a family that has a small hands-on landscaping business. It is in the western part of Carneros. When I first saw this property and how it was planted and farmed I knew it would be excellent for Pinot Noir. This wine was completely punched cap fermented in one ton lots. It was then pressed directly into French oak barrels to finish and age on the lees for 11 months. We chose to bottle this early to capture the pure fruit essence that this really shows off.

RED: In your opinion, what makes the Carneros region so special?

MITCH: Carneros is the coolest non-coastal area in California’s North Coast because of its proximity to the bay. It is well suited to Pinot Noir and the grape essence is preserved into the wine.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

MITCH: Well I am a big fan of Alaskan Wild Salmon and this is classic with that either poached or grilled. But let me indulge for one more. Something that most people don’t know is how great Pinots are with red sauced pastas. Try it, you’ll like it!

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

MITCH: This time of the year I am evaluating the new wines from the 2011 harvest, making decisions on whether to rack any wines or to continue to keep stirring the wines (primarily whites). But I am also working on blends for upcoming bottlings from the 2009 big reds.

RED: How would you recommend people approach your wines and wine in general?

MITCH: Have fun, experiment and explore the possibilities.

RED: Is there anything else you’d like to share with our readers?

MITCH: More exciting things to come!

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Mitch Cosentino’s Couples & Co. winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2010 Miro Cellars Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah

Thumb1234

Mission Codename: Bravissima!

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Benessere Vineyarrds, secure an allotment of the newest vintage of the winery’s 2009 Napa Valley Merlot, a food-fantastic Merlot that is reported to be their best in years.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Benessere Vineyarrds

Wine Subject: 2009 Napa Valley Merlot

Winemaker: Jack Stuart

Backgrounder: True wine lovers, Merlot is one of the finest wine varietals in the world. Today, Merlot continues to sell in record numbers across the US, out-pacing most other varietals. Merlot is a sincere, food-fabulous wine for serious wine drinkers. Today’s wine raises the bar for Napa Merlot, by delivering a delicious, complex, fruit-forward wine with plenty of complexity.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – The deep, ruby-hued edges of this wine catch the light and make the wine seem alive with energy. This color darkens toward the core, where the wine remains clear. After a good swirl, tall, wine-stained tears appear high on the glass – and then march steadily downward.

Smell – Lush red raspberry and softly spiced cherry jump from the glass. Just beneath are ripe blackberry, black currant, exotic spices, sweetwoods, licorice and earthy bramble.

Feel – Very soft and very supple on entry. Then, the wine slowly becomes more firm and mouth-filling. Medium grained tannins add grip at the edges of the tongue. A soft dryness spreads rearward, introducing soft spice and a hint of toasty oak as it moves. Balanced acidity is supported by a touch of flinty minerality.

Taste – Red fruit takes the lead here, with sweet cherry, smoky cranberry and dark raspberry. These primary flavor is followed, soon after, by black cherry and sweet blackberry, with more subtle flavors of tobacco leaf, dried leaves, spice and a soft hint of black pepper.

Finish – Long and juicy, with lingering flavors of cherry, black cherry and cranberry and soft spice. Medium tannins and balanced acidity provide great backbone as flavors tail off very slowly. At the very end, flint and black pepper persist for a little while after the fruit flavors diminish.

Conclusion – Today’s 2009 Benessere Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot really is a fantastic representation of this great varietal. Few wines are better for flexible food-pairing, and today’s really shines a food-friendly companion. We paired ours with a spice-rubbed lamb shank and the wine really shined. Juicy red fruit and a juicy acidity we just right for a quick cleanse of the palate, between bites. If you love great Merlot, today’s is certain to offer you great pleasure. Benessere specializes in Italian varietals, and while Merlot is not Italian, per se, it is the 5th most planted wine grape in Italy. Benessere certainly builds their wines as accompaniment to a great meal. Taste their expertise with this special offering.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Benessere Vineyards winery can be seen in this satellite photo.

2010 Miro Cellars Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah

Thumb111

Mission Codename: Who’s the fairest of them all

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Re-infiltrate Miro Cellars and acquire the newest vintage of their always-delicious Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Miro Cellars

Wine Subject: 2010 Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah – Piccetti Vineyard

Winemaker: Miro Tcholakov

Backgrounder: We first met Miro Tcholakov (who we affectionately call ”Agent KGB”) nearly five years ago. We always love his wines, but it is definitely his Petite Sirah that captivates us the most. For today’s wine, we return to Miro and capture an ample allotment of his newest Petite, for our thirsty Operatives.

Petite Sirah’s California roots dates back to when it was believed to be a close relative of the Syrah grape. Later it would be found to be genetically identical to the Durif, named for its after French discoverer François Durif who found that the varietal was a Syrah grape pollinated with Peloursin flowers. Its smaller berries with higher skin to pulp ratio leads to more intense flavors. Another benefit of the smaller berries are tighter clusters that are more resistant to mildew. Currently Petite Sirah is less popular in France and increasingly popular in the United States.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark and foreboding, with the darkest magenta hues I have ever seen in a wine. When swirled and held to the light, the color looks positively iridescent. After the wine settles, tall, skinny legs descend slowly down the glass.

Smell – Giant blackberry, blueberry, cherry and raspberry leap out of the glass. These are followed, closely, by dark plum, toasty oak, bramble, spice and a hint of black pepper.

Feel – Instantly mouth-filling and rich. After a moment a dark and soft, mineral-laden dryness spreads slowly around the palate. Balanced acidity and plush tannins combine to give the wine a wonderful complexity.

Taste – Dark and juicy, with overripe blackberry, blueberry, plum and black cherry. As the wine opens, it also reveals toasty vanilla, bramble, dried violets and black pepper.

Finish – Ultra long and packed with juicy dark fruit flavors. Eventually, dark fruit yields to earthen components, spice, minerals and pepper.

Conclusion – Once again, Miro impresses us with another fantastic Petite Sirah! His 2010 Miro Cellars Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah, which hails from the Piccetti Vineyard, is his best yet. Rich, delicious and packed with dark flavors, this wine balances sweet flavors against savory, juicy aromatics against plush. On the palate, this wine is rich and plush, giving it a complex and intriguing feel. Overall, we are simply crazy about this wine. Though it is young, and though it will continue to improve over the next several years, we declare this great wine to be ready to drink. Enjoy it with a juicy prime rib, or a spicy pasta dish.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Miro Cellars can be seen in thissatellite photo.